European Railroad Discussion > Croatia advice needed

Dear spouse and I will be off on our first trip "together"  in 19 years some time this fall (w/o the rug rats, now in their late teens).  Target is a week in Italy and a week in Croatia. 


I've not been very successful so far in getting info on train riding in Croatia, so here goes with this board.


1)  Our target in Croatia is around Dubrovnik, where I spent a few years as a kid in the 1960s.  I realize the rail line to Dubrovnik is long gone, but the line to Split appears to still be there, and the ferry trip from Split to Dubrovnik is a spectacle in its own right.  But how to get to Split by rail?  Is there any way a reasonable person can reach Split by rail from northern Italy?  (OK, scratch the "reasonable person" part, its a railfan with a forbearing spouse who likes mountain scenery).


Slow local trains with second class seating is OK.  Overnight in a sleeper would be a big plus.

There are currently two trains a day between Zagreb and Split, taking about 6 hours. When I was there in 2007 the through trains were made up of Bombardier tilting DMUs (like this http://nick86235.smugmug.com/Trains/2007/Away-Fixtures-2007-chasing/i-BXGnVVP) Connections are available from Rijeka. During the summer (end of May onwards) there's an overnight train too - reserved seats and couchettes. There are also through sleeping cars from Prague and Budapest, running on different days of the week. It's a very scenic line so you might want to do it in daylight.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/26/15 12:21 by 86235.

Have you discovered the railfaneurope.net site? Click on the logo to enter, then click on links and then, in the second row, on HRV. Also check seat61.com for more good info.

I second the seat61.com recommendation. You would need to combine the following instructions:
http://seat61.com/venice-to-ljubljana-and-zagreb-by-train.htm#13:41_departure_
http://seat61.com/Croatia.htm#London-to-Split

As you can see, the connections between Italy and Slovenia are limited, but it is doable. You go by train to Trieste (gorgeous trip), catch the one-of-a-kind tram/funicular (a tram that's hauled up a steep uphill stretch by a funicular drogue) to Villa Opicina, and go from there by regional train to Ljubljana, where you can connect onward to Zagreb (spending the night either in Ljubljana or Zagreb).

Alternatively, you could take the daily EuroCity from Venice to Villach, spend the night there, then continue to Ljubljana and Zagreb the next morning. Or you can use a connection as shown in the attached screenshot.

The line from Zagreb to Split is indeed very scenic. 86235 is correct: the two daytime InterCity trains are operated with DMUs, but occasionally you can luck out (as I did last year) and show up at the station to find the DMU replaced by a short, two-car loco-hauled train with a GM-licensed locomotive instead.

I would recommend a night in Split (worth a visit in its own right) before continuing on to Dubrovnik by bus. There are buses more than hourly on the route, but the trains in Croatia can often run late, particularly when a loco-hauled set fills in for one of the DMUs. You might also consider renting a car in Split for the drive down to Dubrovnik. One-way rentals can be had in Croatia for peanuts*. This would also easily allow you a visit to Trogir -- a charming little city.

Of course, the night train from Zagreb to Split is also an option, but you wouldn't want to miss the scenery on this line. 

* A word of caution -- the road to Dubrovnik crosses into Bosnia briefly, for which the rental car agency could charge you extra, although this isn't much. This can also be avoided by taking a ferry from Ploce to Trpanj, another scenic trip.

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An alternative route might be to take the train down to Bari, Italy, and an overnight ferry to Dubrovnik from there.  My sister did that in 2013 with a bunch of her friends.....worked well.

You miss Split, BUT.......it might be an easier route.

And yes, connections between Italy and Slovenia are pathetic these days....since the withdrawal of EN240/241 several years ago, there are no cross-border passenger services from Villa Opicina.....

More of the ride from Zagreb to Split.

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I was there in 2007. Flew into Dubrovnik, stayed 3 days, and then took a bus up to Split where I got on a train and rode to Budapest. The train from Split to Zagreb was very hot and old and clunky, but it was ok for me because I was only 27 and didn't mind. Quite the experience being awakened in the middle of the night by large dogs and guards with guns asking for passports....

Great pictures!

This website might help.  We did some train riding in Croatia in 2006.  Ljubljana to Rijeka, then Spit to Zagreb and Budapest.  It was really interesting and beautiful scenery.

http://www.seat61.com/Croatia.htm#.VRTIjmaG6Vo

Thanks for pics with big American diesels pennengineer!