Model Railroading > Best Practice - Paint Removal Brass

All,

What is the best way to remove paint from brass? All opinions are welcome!

Mark

Total immersion in laquer thinner for an hour or so(after disassembly!) then light scrubbing with toothbrush or similar has always worked for me for even the most stubborn of finishes. Not very sophisticated but hasn't failed yet.

Auburnrail

Once you've got all the paint removed, do you clean the piece with soap and water before spraying a primer?

Once you've bead blasted brass, you won't ever use a solvent or chemical process again. Any little flecks of lacquer or solder flux that solvents sometimes leave behind will be gently abraded away with a bead blaster.

You can buy a useful blasting cabinet for $90 to $100 from Harbor Freight Tools:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45411

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94978

You need an air supply (compressor) and some fine glass bead (media). It's messy and you still have to wash the model after blasting but the surface prep is unparalleled. It works well for plastic models as well.

trainjunkie Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Once you've bead blasted brass, you won't ever use
> a solvent or chemical process again. Any little
> flecks of lacquer or solder flux that solvents
> sometimes leave behind will be gently abraded away
> with a bead blaster.
>

Fur Sure...

I agree blasting is the best, partly account it leaves a really nice etched surface to work with.

Brass us a realatively rugged material and is impervious to most chemicals. So you can use any of the common plastic strippers, commercial strippers, 91% alcohol, over cleaner, laquer thinner and acetone. I have found that Zip Strip works very well but make sure there are no plastic parts added to the model.

If you are going to strip a lot of brass then the blaster is a reasonable investment. If you go with the chemical route you will have to evaluate the hazardous nature as well as the flammability or the liquids when making the purchase. ALWAYS follow the warnings and precautions on some of these materials and work outdoors whenever you can.

Have fun, it is always nice to see a basket case paint job become another fresh and accurate paint scheme when you are done.

Bead blasting aside, I just go down to the paint store and get some paint stripper. It will be coming off immediately and there is no need for soaking/immersion. While the stripper is working, keep it all moving with an old toothbrush. Use a toothpick to get in behind things like grab irons or something like that. The good thing about this process is that it will identify any bad solder joints and you can fix them now. Too many people won't follow this process because it DOES losen bad solder joints. For me, that is what I want to find. Recent models aside, OMI is/was notorious for fast production and bad solder joints. Believe me, it is worth doing it right. If you cannot solder or do not have access to a good variable solder iron, then find one or someone who will do it for you.

Back to the cleaning and paint stripper, I suggest working outside (fumes). Put some water on while scrubbing will be even better because that stripper has acid in it and I believe the addition of the water makes it hydrochloric acid. If you use some industrial gloves (which you should be able to get from Home Depot) this is far better than playing with Acetone. Then you start washing it off with some of that cream cleanser you use for cleaning the stainless steel sink. Prior to you primer coat, wash with a cleaning vinegar and a clean (possibly new cheapie) toothbrush, to get any finger oils off. All of this takes me an hour or two depending on the model.

This is just my suggestion but those mentioned in the other posts are good methods as well. Good luck.

Rick in Oz

What about brake cleaner? I've used it on plastic.

Do you mean brake fluid? That has been used on plastic with good results on some brands of models and near total destruction on others, KATO in particular. I would not chance it with today's plastics. On brass it would be fine but I think there are other choices. Now if you mean the cleaners used to clean the brake pad residue from brake disks and wheel rims, I have no experience with that. I would try some on hidden parts first, even for brass.

drgwfan1 was think about brake fluid amd mot cleaner.
Dennis