Model Railroading > switch issues!! Ugh!

Hello all,
So, I have been constructing my first major layout. I'm using Peco code 83 track, but I was able to obtain 6 Walthers turnouts for half off. Now that I am installing them, I notice that the rail height of the switches is much lower than that of the Peco track. It causes a major dip that could lead to derailments, and is definatly not prototypical running. At this point, it would be MUCH simpler to change out the switches that the track, (of which I have used quite a bit).

I avoided Peco switches because of problems I had with them before involving current flow. Many people say they have to cut spaces in the switch and run wires for it to work properly. Have these problems been solved with Peco switches? If not, what would be a good alternative that world with with my Peco track? My switches are all #6 turnouts.

Thanks so much for any advise you have.

Regarding the height difference, buy the appropriate thickness styrene and shim them. Very easy fix.

Chris

If I use Peco (I have a mix) I use insulfrog, and make certain my blocks are properly powered. Then, zero issues!

Joel Brazy
Coatesville, PA

ChrisCampi Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Regarding the height difference, buy the
> appropriate thickness styrene and shim them. Very
> easy fix.
>
> Chris


This did sound easy enough, but I noticed that if I use rail joiners, the shims raise both rail heads, so the problem still exists. I thought about going without joiners and just soldering the joints, but then I realized that there was also a slight difference in gauge width as well. In the end, the Walthers switches are lower and slightly wider than the Peco track. They do work, but its a very bumpy ride. I bought a bunch of these switches, and I don't particularly fancy having to go out and get another brand when I've already invested money in these. It seems like brand wouldn't make such a big difference.

The answer of shimming the low switch to match the existing track is still the answer. You will have to slightly bend the rail joiners to help with alignment vertically. Or, you can use the premade transition joiners for the same effect. When using things from different manufacturers, you will always have to do at least a limited amount of modification to adapt to your use. This goes well beyond just model railroading.

Peco electrofrog switches have problems with DCC, so you need to have insulfrog switches to make it work right. Are you sure your Walthers switches aren't code 70?

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

They are definitely code 83. Thanks for all the tips! I'll see what I can do with some modifications. When I go to build the yard and engine facility I'll go with Peco inulfrogs.

If you follow the Peco Insulfrog instructions and gap/wire the surrounding track properly, they are flawless. Use some thin cardboard to make "transitions/shims" to level off the differences in track height and you are good to go. After ballasting, the "shims or transitions" vanish. I alway put my eye down on the track to study the track levelness/geometry as I go and as each new switch or track section is placed on the layout.

Jim