Model Railroading > Passenger Car lighting

Not liking the prospects of Kato's $25 car lighting kits for the superliners, I think I'm going to try my hand with some of the cheap LED light strips that are all over Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-300leds-Warm-White-5M-500CM-3528-SMD-Led-Flexible-Strip-Lights-60Led-Meter-/120919355933?

The LED's operate on 12V, but are probably pretty bright. I will try to dim them somehow, possibly with a resistor or some tinted tape. Anyone try something like this yet?

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

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I run in the daytime...solves the problem.

santafedan Wrote:
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> I run in the daytime...solves the problem.

me too. #1 on my seniority roster guarantees well rested day trips........

66

I also model in the daytime. Also, the Superliners have always had smoke tinted windows and during daylight hours it was generally hard to see inside. At night one could see inside, however if you're modeling after 10PM the coach lights would likely be turned way down, diner lighted and empty, select sleeper compartments lighted. After midnight the lounge is closed, most everyone in the sleeper is in bed and only the hall lights are on. I will give Kato credit that their lights are extremely simple to install. Be aware that if you're going with LED installs etc the resistor will be a source of heat. Plastic does not like a lot of heat.

I'm in search of the right smoke tinting for my cars.

Just wondering if you might be able to modify the Walthers lighting kit for Superliners? They are about half the price and work well.

Ted,

I have used this method on about 40 Walthers cars, it is cheap and works great. Do a little testing, but a resistor between 500-1000 works for me. My next lighting project will be some of the Kato Superliner cars.

There is nothing better than to run you train at an open house and listen to everyone comment on the fact that there are people in the train!

Jim

Nice looking train Ted!

Hi Ted.

I've done a similar thing and have attached some cellphone photos of the end results.

I cut a length (to suit the Bi Level cars) from a coil of Warm White LED Strip lighting (5m 300 No. 12V LED Strip light). These strips have the resistors for the LED's and are generally in banks of 3 LED's. Strips can easily be cut with scissors and the self adhesive backing makes installs a breeze.

I haven't opted for any stay alive type circuitry, although a fellow group member in my town has sucessfully attached a capacitor and diode (from memory) to provide a better flicker free solution. Having said that, mine are reasonably good thanks to nice clean wheels and reasonably clean track (surprising due to being in an operational garage).

The last photo was worth a crack, and is looking in the end of the car.

Hope these are of some help. PM me if you want me to find out my fellow group members instructions for wiring up his version of the stay alive power.

Good luck.

Allister.

Blenheim
New Zealand.

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I would focus more on weathering those units and cars. I would weather the trucks, pilots and fuel tanks on the F40's and dullcote the bodies at a minimum. On the cars I would dullcote the bodies and weather the trucks. Those units and cars only looked like that the day they were built!

Did the F40's have ditch lights for the time you model?

Bruce