Model Railroading > Running Brass Passenger Cars

Ok not long ago a fellow commented no brass cars are allowed to run on my layout. WHY??? I am rather new to running smaller model trains as never had a layout before now, its ON30 in progress. All of my experience is in larger scale, 1 1/2". The reason for my question is I just tried out my first brass passenger car a PSC full baggage car that I converted from ON3 to ON30. It pulls and tracks just fine, I installed San Juan evo Sharon couplers and there ON30 passenger trucks and am pulling it with a K27 Mountain Models engine. Given I don't have any grades I can run on yet, web site for my railroad is, DRGW1940 but soon will have by next spring. Its also further along on the main level at this point.
Boyd in Chiloquin Oregon

Brass cars take more time to adjust, not just the frame itself, but since the trucks too are assembled they must be looked at to make sure they are square. A friend had a brass CZ train that was excellent at finding fault with any trackwork, and he insisted on backing them into the station with Grande F's, and then switching them out for a silver set of CB&Q E's.

I pull a consist of 9 Brass cars with no problem. Yes they need adjusting but so do plastic models. I say Run those Brass cars!

Javier Cervantes
Castle Rock , CO

I refit brass passenger cars mostly with Walther's trucks. Sometimes I replace the entire underbody as well with either a Walther's or Rapido product. I got tired of constantly trying to remedy shorts, plus, I like to buy older brass passenger cars and replace the underbodies and trucks to upgrade the appearance to current standards.

Ok so that is what I was looking for in regard to brass as many over the years say they are for display only. I am sure all of those who commented are not in the same scale as I am but some change the trucks out for better running. I also found that the San Juan plastic trucks are much better detailed than the brass ones. I now know that buying any more passenger cars, coaches now brass is not something to worry about. Now if my eyesight was good fixing them would be easier. Thanks again for posting the answers from people who have been there done that.

Older brass passenger cars require a bit of upgrading so they run better. Newer brass cars have better trucks with bearing caps in the ends of the axels.
Charlie
MP 52.7 on the BNSF Topeka sub



BAB Wrote:
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> Ok so that is what I was looking for in regard to
> brass as many over the years say they are for
> display only. I am sure all of those who commented
> are not in the same scale as I am but some change
> the trucks out for better running. I also found
> that the San Juan plastic trucks are much better
> detailed than the brass ones. I now know that
> buying any more passenger cars, coaches now brass
> is not something to worry about. Now if my
> eyesight was good fixing them would be easier.
> Thanks again for posting the answers from people
> who have been there done that.

A guy in Phoenix who has an AMAZING layout featuring LAUPT and has scads of older brass passenger cars told me his secret is to retrofit his cars with Intermountain Ball-bearing wheelsets. He demonstrated how smoothly they ran by switching an 18 car consist with a single switcher. If you have tighter curves, long shank Kadee couplers also help keep the car ends from touching on curves.

Mike

WP282 Wrote:
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> A guy in Phoenix who has an AMAZING layout
> featuring LAUPT and has scads of older brass
> passenger cars told me his secret is to retrofit
> his cars with Intermountain Ball-bearing
> wheelsets. He demonstrated how smoothly they ran
> by switching an 18 car consist with a single
> switcher. If you have tighter curves, long shank
> Kadee couplers also help keep the car ends from
> touching on curves.
>
> Mike

That is what I am finding out too and mine run great with the new trucks under them. Am having fun trying to put Kadee couplers on some of the older passenger cars due to the fact they have scale underframes clear to the end. This does not allow for springs or coupler boxes and also restricts the movement of the coupler. Its nice that PSC changed the way they were done on later ones but have three that are the old way. Found out how well things are soldered trying to modify the frame to accept a coupler box, the whole end beam fell off along with one step. Hmm back to the drwing board, used JB weld on the step but might have to try solder on the end beam. Oh well fun is model railroading sometimes tests my patience.

WP282 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> A guy in Phoenix who has an AMAZING layout
> featuring LAUPT and has scads of older brass
> passenger cars told me his secret is to retrofit
> his cars with Intermountain Ball-bearing
> wheelsets. He demonstrated how smoothly they ran
> by switching an 18 car consist with a single
> switcher. If you have tighter curves, long shank
> Kadee couplers also help keep the car ends from
> touching on curves.
>
> Mike

I know about him using the IM wheels and they do work great, I buy a package every time I see them. Sometimes the detail that is soldered onto these brassies gets in the way of the trucks swinging correctly. I like to use a Dremel tool on this stuff hanging in the way, no I do not cut it off, I grind it on the inside so the detail is still there. Kadee also makes a coupler box with elongated screw holes so you can adjust the entire coupler box in or out to suit your needs.
By the way, "the guy in Phoenix" has over 300 passenger cars on the railroad, not counting what's in the display cases! (I just love vast real estate)
Ed

Always enjoy seeing those who have vast collections and layouts, more power to them and thanks for sharing with others. The sharing part is the most fun of all here at Train Mountain since I live very close its always there for me with just a few minutes drive. But when we have visitors its fun to hand them my engines and a riding car or two and off down the track they go. The Aussies were here for three weeks using it, another from South America used it for a week. Yup sharing is fun look at the smiles one gets in return.
As far as trucks, most will be San Juan as they work great. I also have about twenty AMS cars, in every way they suck bad, detail is poor the trucks are terrible. Oh one thing you don't need that new sound system that makes noise for the cars they do it themselves. Also don't worry about them rolling on a grade less than about 4% either. Couplers are different story in ON3 due to having Kadee only other than dummy's. There lies the problem, coupler boxes and fitting them to older brass passenger cars. Found out that a dremel tool does several things, one, anything that isn't soldered on good falls off, two, the bit eats other things you didn't want removed and three, when done paint works wonders.