Model Railroading > Painting Brass Conrail Overland

Hey all,
Maybe six months ago I acquired a brass, unpainted Overland HO SD38-MT6 (slug) combo which represents Conrail's common hump yard/yard puller power. I have a few bottles of Floquil Conrail blue I'm planning to use. 

Previous threads debate the use of vinegar versus blasting cabinets with various blasting media. This pair of locomotives is rather rare and I don't want to mess it up!  I'd guess the pair dates from the 1990's or so. 

I am currently thinking of going the blasting cabinet route, particularly if that will help with removing lettering from other models that I would plan to re number or re decal. 

Thoughts on sources, media, and primer?  I will take a look at micro mark. 

Thanks!
-Alex

I've been painting brass for quite a while, here are some quick points of what's worked for me:

1. Completely diassemble the model....you don't waht any unpained brass showing. Take pictures, and be aware of electrical pickup wires, Overland was a bit casual with these on some runs.

2. Immerse everything but the drive and any plastic bolsters, etc, in a pan of laquer thinner to cover. The idea is to remove the old clear laquer which was often factory appied. Use an old toothbrush in the cormers.

3. Some Overland models from the 90's apparently used ACC to fasten some screens and other small parts. Don't panic when you see these loose. Just refasten with either ACC, or of you're OK with low temp. solder, used that.
Handle model with cotton gloves or talc-free vinyl gloves. Also, don't get laquer thinner on yourself.

4. Since some details are very shallow echings, it is easy to apply too much paint. Thin only as necessary, and if you're using decals later, opt  for a shiny finish in the initial coat  using gloss.

5. Baking model at 180 degrees is optional. It doe speed up multiple color applications though.

6. I've never found that media blasting or vinegar etching does one thing or another....with media blasting, aagain be aware of the shallow etched details.
Remember, the nice thing about a brass model is that if the paint gets completely fubarred, then it's back to the laquer thinner and you get another chance!

This has worked well for me over the years, others may differ.

George Andrassy



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/05/15 10:30 by Auburnrail.

I would shoot and look at the Floquil Conrail Blue before considering using it. I used it once and found the Conrail Blue to be too light.

Scalecoat Conrail Blue was right on to my eye. A nice rich blue.

Bruce

X2 the Scale Coat CR blue is the way to go.........

Thanks so far, fellas!  I meant to make mention of the Floquil, as it is pretty blue - that these units will be painted in fresh Conrail Quality which I remember being a bit brighter blue than some of the original late 1970's repaints.  I debated highly whether I'd be painting them in the 1993 rusty "pre-Q" scheme but I'm modeling 1994 so Q it is!

i used tru color cr blue recently turned out great my go to paint now