Model Railroading > Single Track HO on a Wall

I'm just coming back to actual Model Railroading after an extended time just reading Model Railroader & Classic Trains and wishing I had another layout. My first and only layout was a lot of fun and a very long time ago, but I've stayed with the hobby over the years . My plan is to circle an average sized room at top-of-the-door height with mostly single track and a long siding along one wall. I don't have room for a duck-under or a movable section of track across the door or closets. It must be more or less 80 inches off the floor. I plan to use background scenery (mainly the readily available desert scene backgrounds) with an occasional railroad building.  My theme is the Southern Pacific across Northern Nevada and I'm modeling the Oakland-Ogden 1955ish 21-22 Mail Train. I would appreciate very much any thoughts, ideas, or suggestions you people may have on how I could/should attach the roadbed supports to the walls and how I could bridge the roadbed curves between each wall. I'd like very broad curves is at all possible. 

Please be kind. I've got a lot to learn, which I why I am asking you people for help.

Thanks,

Steve Fitt,
Nevada
Grew up on the SP Western Division & "Guest engineered" a 2-8-0 Consolidation switching the Selby Smelter for about a half mile. My engineer friend, Ralph Hudson, kept urging me to pull back on the "throttle" a little more. I finally ended up spinning the drivers! 



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/16 10:16 by LittleDoc.

How wide is it going to be?

Victor A. Baird
​http://www.erstwhilepublications.com

Hey, Steve.  Actually a great idea.  I've seen something similar in person and REALLY like it!  Couple of thoughts (your milage may vary) but you may want to consider keeping the track actually very close to the OUTSIDE edge of a 3" wide shelf.  this will give maximum viewing of engine and rolling stock and still leave enough room for for fingers to arange cars etc. Suprisingly enough, a very small, approx 1/2 inch high, see thru, fence strongly  built will keep most anything from falling off the track.   Although you could use 18" radius, 36" would look much nicer and still only be 18" out from the corner.  This would also leave you with enough room in the corners to have stations, houses, bldgs, etc.   Along one wall, I would suggest a little wider shelf, say 5-6" and install a long siding which would allow storage for another complete lashup or two (perhaps a passenger, or refrigerator train or mixed consist.)  Commercial backdrops are readily available.      Attached is a photo of a 1 1/2" deep display that was constructed in one afternoon for the NMRA meet in Henderson NV last year.  18,000 horsepower outside Cajon.   Backdrops were furnished free of charge for the meeting by Railroad Backdrops .com   Keep us update on your progress.    Mark  <><

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You might consider being a little paranoid about locos and rolling stock derailing into the precipice. This could be a real headache, literally and figuratively. I face a situation identical to yours - I have to get my tracks over an archway - and derailment mitigation is my first priority, along with what I guess you could call "fall prevention devices" - fences, snow sheds, bushes/trees, guard rails, etc. and as a last resort, Plexiglas or Lexan. Yeah, I suppose an alternative might be to declare the train room a hard-hat-and-steel-tipped-boots area, but the thought of your mail train (I'm also a big fan of the Overland Mail) string-lining a curve and sailing to the floor is a repugnant, yes? Your thoughts about wide-as-possible curves certainly are salient, here. Low speed limits would also be a help.

Also, buy or build yourself a low scaffold, and set up a small table on it for your tools and materials. It beats running up and down a ladder. You could use the scaffold when operating also, if you want to have a yard or industrial area.

Now, as to attaching the supports, standard pressed steel shelf brackets ought to do the trick. Though it would be best to screw them to studs, you ought to be able to get away with using toggle bolts (the kind that have a sleeve surrounding the screw - stay away from the ones without the sleeve) where the need arises. For the kind of weight we are talking here, toggle bolts are more than adequate, unless you plan to use your layout for a chin-up bar. For inside corners, make sure that you have solid supports on either side of the curves, and attach a wooden support extending from the corner (where you'll definitely find studs for screws). If you're using 3/4 plywood to support the roadbed, 16-24" spacing of brackets is fine, assuming that you face the plywood edge with 1x2" furring. Facing the curves is a bit more problematic. I'm going to rip 1x2's into thin lengths that will be laminated together.

EO

Steve here: Thank you for your very helpful suggestions! My comments on your suggestions follow:

Victor: I’ve tentatively planned 3” wide track base with a 5-6” wide passing track base on one of the long walls, possibly both. We've recently downsized and the room is smaller than I would have wanted but will serve my requirements well.
 
Mark: I like your suggestions of the need for maximum viewing and for the use of a ½ inch high clear plastic see thru fence. I’ve been concerned about derailments and had planned for rerailers at the beginning of each curve.  Is that a good idea? I also like your suggestion for buildings at the corners. Finally, I should have been at the NMRA Meet in Henderson!!
 
EO: I echo your concerns about the mail train taking a dive off the tracks. I really like your suggestion of strategic placement of “fall prevention devices”. That would add some dimension below the roadbed and not impede the view. I also appreciate your suggestion to attach a wooden support from each of the corners. I plan for 36” radius track on the curves. The support should stabilize the track base and provide a lot of room for structures.
 
Finally another question . . .  I don't like snap track! But, my track will not be viewable. At best a rail and some ballast will be visible. Snap track would be easier and faster but I'm a perfectionist. Would Bachmann snap track be a viable option? With due respect to Bachmann.

Thank you so much for your very helpful suggestions and recommendations! I’ve got a series of honey do’s on the agenda but will keep you informed as I progress!
 
Steve
 

If you are going to use track with a base, I've heard a lot of complaints about Bachman for turnouts, so if you plan a couple of sidings, I'd go with KATO Unitrack for sure.  It's not that much more expensive, at least the basic curves and straights.  I bought some for a text track oval and it worked very well.

Cheers, Jim Fitch

How noisy do folks find track with a plastic base such as Bachmann E-Z Track? A friend gave me a test track loop made using E-Z Track mounted on a Homasote panel. I've found that to have a fairly loud and plasticky sound. Standard sectional or flex track on roadbed might sound better, especially if the room is to be shared with other uses.

I don't think you will be very happy with such an arrangement. It's hard to apperciate small models that far overhead. It will be hard to get the track right and derailments will be a pain in the arse to deal with. Plus you will need something to keep the eqiupment from falling to the floor, and that will further obscure the train. You may want to join a local club. Also I'm not sure if this room is intended to be anything more than a train room, but I would remove the closet doors and build a 12" wide layout span in front of the open closet, and then a removeable section in front of the door to the room, and a traditional layout in the rest of the room.

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

I use Bachmann EZ-track on a 1x3 along the wall.  Since I am using a slow moving Shay noise is not a problem.  See photos below:



 

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Another picture.

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I have no experience with EZ Track and similar, but I would opine that you should be very fastidious about your track-laying, whatever route that you take. I would think that there would be nothing more aggrivating, and perhaps painful, than delaing with a problem joint or switch at high altitude. For myself, I'm using lengths of tried-and-true Code 100 flex track, soldered together in twos. I'm going to lay and test the track in sections on the "ground", then hoist six or twelve foot layout sections into place for final testing. But, if you are in a hurry, and EZ track is derailment free, heck, go with that. My only question is, how noisy is it? Noisy track just above ear level could drive you bats.

EO

I'm planning a similar layout for my home office, above the door facings, and while it's high, I'd rather see them run then keep them in boxes, so that's what I can do for now.

My plan for attaching to the wall is to adapt this cleat system I saw in Family Handyman. I have block walls, so I plan on taking great pains to level the cleats, then build four corners as units that drop into the cleats so that they are relatively easy to remove should the need arise. The four long walls will be about 6" deep so I can squeeze in 2 HO tracks and those sections will drop onto the cleats also. Haven't worked out all the details but that's my plan.

Here's a link to a video showing the cleat system. Seems like it would work well for a shallow shelf layout and will keep my office from looking like a warehouse of shelving brackets.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/garage/storage/custom-garage-storage

I look forward to more opinions on this type of layout.

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Jared Hamilton
Scott Depot, WV

Jared said: "I'd rather see them run than keep them in boxes". That's exactly where I am. I've got boxes and shelves of HO stuff but nowhere to run it. The room where I will build my HO "layout" has to serve dual purposes, a study where I work, and a modified train room. I really want to be able to see my train and hear it run. In my case the best option is over the doors, over the 3 closet doors and over the window. I realize the view of the train will be compromised to a degree. I can live with that. I really appreciate all the suggestions and comments. I think I'll experiment with the cleat system. That one is new to me. The photos and video some of you have provided have been very helpful. Thank you! I love the Shay and the log train! 

Steve



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/16 21:43 by LittleDoc.