Model Railroading > Cutting Styrofoam - How to?

I need to cut up some 1" styrofoam for scenery purposes. Maybe some 2" later.
So how to do it?
Available tools are:
a saber/jig saw
hacksaw blades, probably in one of those holders that leave half the blade sticking out
serrated steak knives, my wife volunteers in a thrift store so I can probably get these fairly easily
I might be able to borrow a hot wire cutter

Whats best for cutting large shapes out of sheet styrofoam? Trim work?

Thanks,
Clarence

 

I use a utility knife to score a line and then snap it to get the main piece, then use my palm sander and/or surform tool to do the details.  

Mike
 

I also use the palm sander (square one) to smooth my cork roadbed, and I have found that I can angle the sander and actually cut ditches along the cork roadbed into the foam by doing this method.

Mike
 

Chack out Hot Wire Foam Factory, they have all sorts of different tools to cutting and shaping foam. A lot less messy than hacking away with just about any standard knife.

https://hotwirefoamfactory.com


~ Mr. MRL

I bought a hot wire cutter for all of $20 delivered FOC out of Hong Kong.  They provide the appropriate voltage for your region.  I found it on the Bay.

Rick

 

Any sawing or sure form shaping will produce dust that is very static charged, and clings to everything. Not a deal breaker, but something to plan for. 

For or straight cuts, I use the score and snap technique--cut lightly with a fresh utility knife, then make a deeper pass in the same cut, then line the cut up,along the edge of a table and snap it off. Curved cuts are best done with a cheap but sharp carving knife or a hot wire tool. Ventilate the area if using hot wire- the fumes are irritating. 

While putting together benchwork, I've used a saber saw on 2" foam with decent results. Clingy dust was not an issue because I did my cutting outside.

A good serrated steak knife or longer knife will work fine. Since you can get them.cheap. no sense in getting something more expensive. Plus you have it for other scenery work as well. Those foams give off toxic fumes. When cut with a hot wire. Not many types dont. And those are more expensive foam types. Hot wire isn't the best choice unless you have a separate building the.layout is in. Or doing.the cutting outside

I have a utility knife with the longer snap off blade. I'll cut with it at longer lengths, and I recentely realized that I can use a kitchen knife sharpener to quickly resharpen it. That has been amazing, as I have been able to keep the same blade in. Foam makes it dull fast so it is great to quickly get around that.

I just cut the panels with a utility knife with the blade fully extended with the panel on the concrete garage floor.

This works great on the blue or pink board. If you are using the white stuff which breaks apart into little beads, this wont work as well. I avoid using that stuff.

I agree with not using heat due to fumes produced. If you must, have VERY good ventilation and a fire hose handy.


First aid kit nearby, phone to dial 911 with in reach.

Michael

The old hot knofe works great for this. Eb-ay is your friend.

Laser beam, high pressure water jet....or light saber...

I use a mini-bandsaw with a fine toothed blade. The cuts are ultra smooth. I have also had good results with a hot knife, but must emphasize that you must have good ventilation or cut it outdoors. The fumes are quite toxic.

Mike

Posted from iPhone

SP4360 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The old hot knofe works great for this. Eb-ay is
> your friend.

"That's not a knofe - that's a knife."

Rick

It's been awhile, but I used an electric hot wire knife to cut/contour the various shapes on my layout.
Then, as I recall, I used a fine sanding block to smooth the cuts.
Then, I applied a coat of DAP joint compound over it to seal it before applying landscaping materials over Elmer's white glue.
I then attached the sculpted forms using Liquid Nails Project adhesive.
It's been five years since I did this, so I'm working from feeble memory.
PHil

These are blobby shapes so the score and snap won't work too well.
I do all this sort of stuff in the garage with the door rolled up.
I use the styrofoam (solid pink, not the bead stuff) for scenery base.
Bead foam might get used on top of the base foam for minor elevation changes - don't want that pool table flat look.

So it looks like serrated and utility knives, unless I can borrow a hot wire cutter. I might be able to buy one at the next Timonium show too.
Thanks,
Clarence
 

Damn keyboatrd Dundeee!

rschonfelder Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> SP4360 Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > The old hot knofe works great for this. Eb-ay
> is
> > your friend.
>
> "That's not a knofe - that's a knife."
>
> Rick

Another tool to consider for really intricate shapes.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Grinders-Sanders/Foam-Rubber-Cutter/hot-wire-cutter-thermocut-115e?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CMXXsLGE7dICFdiKswodp0cLQQ

Haven't bought one of these yet, but I intend to.  I had a similar, cheaper unit that I got from MicroMark a few years ago.  It worked fine for a couple hours, but the transformer burst into flames at one  point and I took that as a sign to stop using it.

If you have young children, you can easily make play items using 1/2" foam sheets and a utility knife.  
I recently made an arch bridge and some stackable terrain shapes which my boys use for their toy cars and military battles.  Good for a wood toy train setup on the floor, also.  Also made a sword.
Clear packing tape holds foam pieces together very well.