Model Railroading > Type of Wood needed for a Train Table.....

I am attempting to build a Train Table so I can start builing my layout which is 10 ft by 4 ft. Can anyone advise me the best type of wood to use for a frame, would pine be good for the frame and legs? Also the table top, I was thinking of using 1/4 or 1/2 luan wood, which is soft and easy to drive track nails into. Anyone have any better ideas on the type of wood used for making a Train Table?


Peter

The best advice is to get a how-to-book and read it carefully. I would recomend no less than 1/2 inch plywood with Homasote over it for the top. The Luan has very little strength and will sag. The Homasote takes nails, screws and scenery materials very well.
In a post several days ago someone recommended cedar for the framing but that is expensive. I am sure others will have ideas too. Good luck.

I would use kiln dried fir or poplar 2X4s for the framework with either bolts or screws. Bolts are best, but expensive. Screws are good, bu use pilot hole to prevent splitting. I use screws in mine, and it is solid. Of course your legs will ALWAYS need bracing.

On the top, depending on the cross bracing, 1/2 inch plywood with homasote over it. Or, if you want to go with plywd only, 5/8 or 3/4 inch fir. Fir ply is fairly soft for little nails. Yellow Pine anything, is hard, and WILL WARP.

Lynn

peter wrote:
>
> I am attempting to build a Train Table so I can start builing
> my layout which is 10 ft by 4 ft. Can anyone advise me the best
> type of wood to use for a frame, would pine be good for the
> frame and legs? Also the table top, I was thinking of using 1/4
> or 1/2 luan wood, which is soft and easy to drive track nails
> into. Anyone have any better ideas on the type of wood used for
> making a Train Table?
>
>
> Peter

Pete, how about you telling us a little bit more about your layout?

Do you have a plan? Is this your first layout?

Do you want to be able to move it around, or maybe even out of the house?

Are you on a budget?

By the way, the only way I would recommend lauan is for someone who wants to handlay track, and then there should be something stiffer underneath. It's too soft for general benchwork.

The point of all the questions is that I'm sold on construction foam for benchwork, but it may not be suitable for your situation. Fill in a few details, and maybe it's an option.

VunderBob

Hi Peter!
First get your track plan together.Next next get the book "How to build model railroad benchwork".
Remember your benchwork has to hold model trains,..not real ones! :-) Even though 2x4's are readily available you don't need anything that big.Rip them to 2X2 for legs,1x2,1X3,1X4's for most everything else.Also get drywall screws,cheap and easy to attach the lumber together(IMHO)

Good luck!

KB

Amen on the smaller lumber! My layout, although not a table type, is exclusively 1x2 (on edge), glued with carpenter's glue and screwed with sheetrock screws at every joint. A 3/8 plywood deck, glued and screwed to the 1x2 frame, supports a blue foam surface. I can SIT on it with no qualms at all.

You'll also want to consider if you're going to use the old cookie cutter method, in which case a thicker plywood will be hard to "bend". I agree with VB %101, get thyself a book on the subject and start doodling!
Doc

From 60 years experience, I would advise use of a framework made of 1x4 pine, screwed together at all joints. This will allow you to raise the sub-roadbed (of whatever material you wish) above the basic frame, and to install scenery below the general track level. Screws will allow changes without the vibration from pulling and re-nailing.
Vertical posts can be used to hold the framing for hills or mountains. Wire coat-hangers can be used to form the scenery framing, with screen wire fastened to them, covered with towels dipped in thinned Hydra-cal, to which rock molds can be attached. Avoid solid-top tables and cookie-cutting plywood, as these bases limit what you can do for scenery later on. Be sure to plan for sidings at industries that can be switched. Just running cars around behind a loco will get boring after a while, whereas operating a railroad can provide new fun every time. By the way, use 2x4 legs, with bolts in the bottom that can be screwed in or out to take care of irregularities in the floor. Best of luck!