Railfan Technology > Good Entry-Level DSLR for Train Photography

Hello all, 

 I am looking into investing in a DSLR for my railfan photography, and was wondering what suggestions people have. I currently use a point and shoot, so I'm not experienced in DSLRs. I had seen a lot of good reviews for the Nikon D3300, but wasn't sure how it holds up when photographing trains moving at 70mph. I have also heard good things about the Canon Rebel T5. I'm kind of leaning toward the Canon, but mainly due to price. I'm wanting to keep the price fairly low, if possible. I have also read that the lenses are very important, but don't know much about them. 
Thanks in advance for any suggestions and comments!
   -Caleb



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/26/15 09:09 by Trainatic.

Not wanting to start a flame war, but, this Canonista has to face the fact that the Sony sensors in Nikons are superior to the decade old design sesors in Canons.  It pains me to say that, but.....

Go to www.dpreview.com and look around.  One thing to remember, dpreview is a gear head site, and the gera heads will argue about almost anything. But there is a large knowledge base there.

The T5/T5i have been superceded by the T6/T6i in Canonland.

Dslr cameras allow you to set a shutter speed of 1/500-1/1000 second which will freeze action at 70mph. You can then let the camera choose the proper aperture or you can manually set one using the camera meter.

The newer sensors do work well at ISO 500 and higher if you need that.

I have been Nikon since the film days and I wore out the Minolta. I can still use my old film lenses on my Nikon digital body.

You can also find good used autofocus lenses from Nikon and Canon to reduce expenses if you like.

Posted from iPhone

Just to balance the discussion, i'm a canon man! I got a rebel in 2008 and was very happy with it until i upgraded to a 70D 2 years ago. As another poster mentions, certain websites/photographers will say that Canon sensors lag behind Sony/Nikon ones. There are certain graphs/charts that seem to bear this out - the main difference being in something called dynamic range.
I have to say that i think these arguments are very similar to those i used to hear from some old friends i had that were hifi geeks, about performance comparisons of different equipment. In reality i believe that any differences that these graphs show are irrelevant when it comes to the human eye looking at multi-megapixel images. If Canon sensors are so poor then why do photographers in all kinds of professional capacities use canon cameras more than they use Nikon? Exactly...

So to conclude, i've loved my Canon dslrs and have been really pleased with my images. If you want to see a few taken with my canons please go to the 'Railpictures' website and search on 'paul sykes' as the photographer.

You mentioned photographing trains at quite high speeds. As another poster has mentioned, all cameras have high enough shutter speeds to 'freeze' trains moving at these speeds. However, another important aspect in my opinion (if you want to maximise the percentage of really good shots, particularly with fast trains) is the burst rate.  

So one of the reasons i went from a rebel to a 70D was because the burst rate went up from about 3 shots per second to 7 shots per second. So you might want to compare the maximum frame/burst rates of different cameras i.e. continuous shots per second, if photographing quite fast trains is important to you.



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 11/26/15 14:50 by exhaustED.

I'm a long time Canon shooter with over 40 years of having nothing but Canons in my hands.  So, I'll naturally tell you to go with one of the Canon Rebel T5i or T6i cameras as a good start.

However...beware of the many 'package deals' available where you get the camera, and 1 or 2 genuine Canon lenses (18-55 and 55-250, usually) and a bunch of useless, cheap, typically junk accessories.  Those accessories are where the sellers get subtantial markups! 

Especially avoid the 'screw on' 2X or whatever they call them 'telephoto extender' and/or 'macro' lenses.  Using them is like smearing petroleum jelly on the front of your lens!  The filters in many of the kits are typically low quality and mostly useless except for a CPL (Circular Polarizer to cut glare from windows and water surfaces as well as darken the sky).  The FLD filter in some kits are for FILM cameras to correct florescent lighting when using daylight film!  And UV (or skylight) filters as protection?  The front element of your lens will take more punishment than a cheap UV filter!  Also, virtually ALL digital cameras have a built-in UV filter!  Regardless of how high the quality of a filter or other glass one puts in front of the lens, the resultant image will be slightly less sharp than had it not been used.  Lower end filters are also notorius for producing 'lens flare' (typically circular, bright spots of light at seemingly random locations in the image).  The quality of the glass and coatings determine how much or how little image degredation will occur.  You'll reduce occurrances of lens flare and provide a good deal of 'accidental bump' protection for your len(es) by purchasing the appropriate lens hoods for them! 

Other 'package deal' gear including flash, tripod, memory card(s) and case are somewhat useful, but recognize they are often at the low end in the 'quality' department and may not be as durable, strong, or long lasting, or error-free (memory cards) as higher quality equipment from well-regarded manufacturers.

Lastly, buy your camera from a well established, reputable dealer...especially if bought online!  Walmart and Amazon are good places to buy, as are my 2 favorites, B&H Photo and Adorama, both in NYC with outstanding service and reputation (and good deals on used equipment, too!).  There are countless online photo equipment 'dealers' that are nothing more than rip-off sites, some not even sending the gear you purchased!  Many others will actually call you after your order is placed and paid for and try various hard-sell tactics such as offering a 'longer lasting' battery (it's not), other lenses (usually not the manufacturer as your camera), and, of course, a 1, 2 or 3 year 'warranty' (cameras and lenses rarely fail and if they do, it's within the 12 month factory warranty).  It's hard to say 'no' to them, but you absolutely have to.  THEN they'll take their sweet time shipping, usually measure in WEEKS, explaining your camera is out of stock, backordered, blah-blah-blah...  While you might save a hundred bucks buying from them, that's only true if you actually receive the camera in a timely manner!  Speaking of warranty, 'grey market' items are genuine gear, but with a non-USA manufacturers warranty on them.  If you do have a warranty claim, it may have to be sent overseas to get repaired.

I'm always surprised when this question comes up and no one suggests looking at the used camera market.  The price-break more than makes up for the lack of a guarantee, especially if you purchase from an individual owner who doesn't have to make a profit from the deal.  For instance, when I moved up to full-frame, I traded a D-7100 in for $300 credit.  I would sell it in a minute to anyone for that price.....and it was in PERFECT condition and had a low frame count.   Just because Nikon came out with "improved versions" doesn't mean they still can't take great photos.  As a matter of fact, I have another D-7100 that I will be selling soon for whatever I can get over $250

Ed

Auburn_Ed Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I'm always surprised when this question comes up
> and no one suggests looking at the used camera
> market.  The price-break more than makes up for
> the lack of a guarantee, especially if you
> purchase from an individual owner who doesn't have
> to make a profit from the deal.  For instance,
> when I moved up to full-frame, I traded a D-7100
> in for $300 credit.  I would sell it in a minute
> to anyone for that price.....and it was in PERFECT
> condition and had a low frame count.   Just
> because Nikon came out with "improved versions"
> doesn't mean they still can't take great photos. 
> As a matter of fact, I have another D-7100 that I
> will be selling soon for whatever I can get over
> $250
>
> Ed

I'm with Ed. I own a Nikon D600, and still use two Nikon
D200s from time to time. The D600 has a modern sensor,
and I can use that down to ISO 1600 or 3200 without a
whole lot of noise. The D200s don't like to go much
beyond ISO 400 without becoming somewhat noisy. I've
a number of used prime lenses that knock the socks off
the zooms that I have, and those are also Nikkor lenses.


Cannon or Nikon: I don't think it matters much except to
the manufacturers... Photographers get good results from
either brand. Choose your weapon, and get good with it by
taking lots of shots :-)

John.

As suggested above, my first DSLR (Canon EOS 20D) was bought secondhand. Bought a refurb Sigma 18-200 mm lens and got started for less than $400. Before that I used an Olympus point-n-shoot, but I decided to upgrade when I was demanding more from the camera, like better focus controls, less shutter lag, and taking night shots.

Ability to easily manual focus and lack of shutter lag made the biggest difference for me when I went DSLR.

I've since gone back to point-n-shoot, a FujiFilm I bought for $90 (refurb) with better zoom, more megapixels, and more compact in size than the 20D. Unlike the 20D, I don't have to worry about cleaning the sensors periodically. I shoot more video than take stills, so the 20D was taking too much luggage room, so to speak. I still have it.

So go for a secondhand or refurb, regardless of brand. If you really like it, you can buy a better camera based on your experience, or go back to point-n-shoot without wasting too much money. Or if you decide to switch brand (Canon to Nikon, or vice versa), you can do it easier, since you didn't invest $$$ yet.

Check out the manufacturers' web sites for refurbished cameras.  Nikon usually has more than one model available as a refurb.  The cameras are as good as new, since they've been back to the factory and tuned up, and carry a full warranty.

I think Canon has a refurb outlet also.  You can go to "B and H" http://www.bhphotovideo.com/ and click Photography and then Digital Cameras.  They have a filter where you can click the brands, the price range, free shipping, etc... and you can see what's available in your price range.  Nikon or Canon are two names that you can be assured of getting a good product.  Nikon is usually a few bucks higher but not much.  Nikon has some accessories that Canon doesn't but you probably don't want to take pictures through a microscope anyway.  The basic kits usually have the camera, battery, lens, memory card, shoulder strap, printed manual, and some software for working on your pictures if you desire.  The standard lens is usually something around 18-55mm, a decent wide angle and small telephoto range.  The next step up usually adds the medium telephoto zoom, about 55-250mm.  Maybe an additional battery and a carry case.  After that, the accessories are usually inexpensive items that boost the retailers profit line.  You can buy better if you buy them separately.  Don't be real concerned about megapixels.  I think everything has at least 10 megapixels and that is more than enough for a 12X18 print, looking at it on your monitor, or posting it on the internet.  If you're really nit picking about it you might want more but if you've been using a point and shoot, you're going to fine that 10 megapixels through a good lens is going to produce a nice product for you.

Before you buy, go by a camera shop or Wal*Mart or someplace and put one in your hands.  You'll get an idea of the weight and balance and the controls.  If the battery is dead on the store camera, the autofocus won't work but the zoom will.  Like someone else said, purchase it from a dealer that has been around for awhile.  Adorama or B and H are two of the best known mail order shops.  Walmart, Office Depot, Sams Club, Cosco, and others will have a limited selection but will have good prices.  Extra warranty is usually a waste. As with most anything electronic, if it's going to break, it's going to break early in it's life or real late in the life.  An used camera might be a good choice.  The price will be lower and if you decide you don't like it or would rather have something better, you can always sell it without loosing too much.

Looking forward to seeing some GREAT photos posted here in the next few weeks.

John

Oh, Don't forget to let Santa know what you want!
 



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/26/15 23:40 by wa4umr.

Canon does have a refurb program. They will charge sales tax,too.  You can try www.canonpricewatch.com for so good deals.  Take a look at the T5 deal w/printer from an authorized dealer.  They like B&H and Adorama are reliable.

I switched from Nikon to Canon when I went from film to digital.  My first Canon was a 20D, which I still have, but seldom use.  My current DSLR is a Canon 7D and I find it more than adequate for any photography that I do.  The key is to get good lenses.  For example, the 20D with a good lens will take better photos than the 7D with a mediocre lens.  If you have to economize, economize on the camera, not the glass.  All of that said, I still carry a Canon SX-230HS point-and-shoot that I use more than the 7D.  Why? Because it is easy to carry with me just about all the time.  I'm going to be taking a multi-day Amtrak trip later this winter, and the 7D will be staying at home--just too much bulk to deal with.  The SX-230 will be in my pocket. 

I bought a Nikon D3200 as a secondary camera to my D600.  It's considered an entry level camera, but with a good lens it will deliver great performance.  It's lightweight and handles well, and the controls are easy to understand and work.  The sensor is also top notch, 24MP, not something you would expect from an entry level camera.  You can find the D3200 or its replacement, the D3300, with a decent 18-55mm lens, for under $500.

Also, don't disregard some of the better 'bridge' cameras. These look a bit like a dslr and have a good zoom lens but don't have interchangable lenses. Image quality can be very good still (Fuji, Panasonic etc) and the cost is often very reasonable, say $400-500. Many of the features of a dslr are in these cameras including a fast 'burst rate', but the size is a bit smaller and lighter too. Just a thought...go and have a play in a good shop!

Nikon D3300 will be fine.

KG

kgmontreal Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Nikon D3300 will be fine.
>
> KG

Possibly a little too much information! :-)

The best brand to get is ... the one your friends use. 

That said, Nikon has a fantastic deal now on a D3200 kit with two lenses at Adorama and B&H for $400. Add a 35/1.8 prime for low light and you've got a setup that can shoot just about anything a railfan would want to.

LiveWire Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Nikon has a fantastic deal now on a
> D3200 kit with two lenses at Adorama and B&H for
> $400.

If you want a D3200 kit (body, 18-55 and 55-200, both VR) Amazon has a Black Friday deal on it through 12/6 for $369.95. Hard to beat.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016VOV714?ref_=gb1h_tit_m-5_9102_90c234ba&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

That's the same package I referenced. All three stores are honoring the price, which, I believe, expires at the end of today.

Thank you everyone for the advice! It's helpful to hear from other railfans and not just the "camera experts" online. Thanks again!
  -Caleb