Model Railroading > Bowser trolley/subway chassis problem

I've got a Bowser chassis that fits in an Island Model Works CTA "L" car, but is also made for trolleys. I'm working on seeing what radius curves it can take, but in the meantime, I've noticed that the powered truck is resting very close to the frame, to the extent that it scrapes. In the first photo you can see a space between the truck and frame on the trailing truck, and no such space on the powered truck.

I've looked over the assembly and setup of the powered truck 3 times to make sure it is correct, and can't find an error. A closer photo of it is shown. Does anyone know why it is resting lower (surely Bowser didn't make it like this...)

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Just put a small metal shim washer under the black cross-member that is screwed to the frame.

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

You sure about that Ted, he wants to raise the frame, what you are suggesting would push the frame further down would it not. I would think he may have to file the " Underside " of the 'tags' that the screws are in.

Malcolm
New Zealand.

I agree with Malcom, washer under tab would lower the frame more. You need to file the bottom of the tab thinner and this should raise the frame, no?
Stan

As Ted said but a washer between the truck and black strip so it lowers the truck and raises the frame.

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To make the truck fit lower in the frame , cut/mill/file a slot across the frame, so that the black cross-bar fits down into it - it may also need the fixing screws shortening slightly or shim washers under the heads of the screws to take up any slack

shortliner Wrote:
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> To make the truck fit lower in the frame ,
> cut/mill/file a slot across the frame, so that the
> black cross-bar fits down into it - it may also
> need the fixing screws shortening slightly or
> shim washers under the heads of the screws to take
> up any slack

I think this will work. If I put a washer in I don't think the "pin" of the plastic crossbar will reach the truck

from the looks of it the 2 screws holding the bar can be removed and the black bar sanded where the screw holes are from underneath which should lower the black bar raising the frame.

My vote would be a new crosspiece. It looks like it's too thick where the screws are and it is thinner at the truck pin.

It's almost like the cross piece is upside down, if so the screws should be round heads and may have to be longer. The counter bore for the present screws makes it appear to be installed correctly, not sure what happens with the truck pin if the crosspiece is simply flipped.

A washer may not work because of the clearance between the drive shaft and the crosspiece, there's also some other protrusion below the drive line I can't quite figure out.

I wanted to flip the crosspiece as described, because it would size up right, but the thickness of plastic that holds the screw in the hole is very shallow, therefore, I couldn't dremel it down or reverse it. I was able to file away at the metal frame to get the desired result, will post soon.

Edit: just now I looked in the island box and fould a cast metal spanning piece that looks like it would have left things level. Oh well...

So after a bit of dremel and file work, here is my solution, based on suggestions. Looking on the left I lowered the spot where the crossbar connects. This got that truck close to level with the trailing truck. The only problem is I have noticed the metal is surprisingly pliable.

I am really wondering if I totally lost or missed something, as I don't understand how Bowser could produce this as a defect. I need to get another axle/frame combo for my other cta car, so I'll have a chance to double check then.

I also filed out the span the truck comes through to widen the turning radius significantly. In a post from 11/20 (above) I've got the cars to run on something near a 8-9 inch radius.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/20/12 21:55 by inRVA.

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