Model Railroading > Help needed: cleaning needle files

I have two sets of K&S needle files in desperate need of cleaning. The file surfaces are filled with plastic, wood and "mystery metal" (whatever Alloy Forms is using, some lead, some white metal).

I have not been successful with a card file. My local hobby shop suggested muriatic acid. I used it on one file and did great damage.

Any ideas?

I've had some success with a small brass wire brush.

Bill

traditional is a stiff wire brush, which is what a file card is. try the application of a little, lighter fluid, kerosene or light lube oil when you do it. for those guys you only need a drop or two.

Ah, the old plugged file trick. I use a dental pick and a stiff fine wire brush. If you are going to be doing a lot of filing on soft metal, brass or softer, and can wash it afterward, spray the file and work with WD40. Wash up with soap and water. The WD40 keeps down the clugging of the file. The only good use of WD40 that I know of ;^). Used the same trick back in the old days working on aluminum cylinder heads with a rotary burr. No plugged up burrs and a nice clean cut.

Jim Harrawood
Utah Rails
http://www.trainweb.org/utahrails/index.html

Use the small (about 6 inches long) steel brushes with the wooden handles (brushes like that usually have brass bristles, but if you look, you can find them with steel ones -- along with fiber, for that matter).

Try to avoid filing solder. You can do almost all solder removal with an Exacto knife. If you do need to file solder, use lite cuts, and clean the file frequently.

This won't help with your present cleaning problem but in the future try rubbing them lightly with chalk before using them. This will help to clean them in the future.

Go to a company that sells tooling. Get a "Stainless Steel" brissel type brush. Look for a brush with "Brissels" that are no longer than 1/16 to 1/8 inch long. They use these's in machine shops to remove paint or oxide with out removing the metal it's self.(example a crank pin or crank bearing} Scott in Mi.

Try Boric Acid.

I'm going to be the wise guy in the crowd, just couldn't pass up the chance. Buy a new set ;)

....that's how I got TWO sets in the first place!!!!!!

Bob, Give my idea a shot. General Motors has done this for years. I learned the trick from them. I have 31 years there.

The standard wisdom among machinists is -

Use chalk on the file.

Card the file often, BEFORE it gets all the way full.

Hoppe's #9, Kroil, similar gun bore cleaners or industrial solvents. Kinda need to let them soak in a bit, the solvent will soak in between the layers of dissimilar metals lifting them apart, then hit them with brushes. may need to soak a few times. Depending on the solvent, keep it off plastic, paint or other finishes. Should be able to get Hoppe's or similar at any store that has shooting accessories. Look for stuff that is used to remove leading from gun barrels, just about same thing as solder on files.

Hahaha, I hear ya Bob, I have tons of files too, but thanks to the tips here maybe I could rejuvinate mine as well and stop buying them. Have a good day.

If all else fails, you can dig the crud out of each groove
in the file with a pointed Xacto blade

they still sell hoppes #9? i used to go down and get high on the smell of that stuff until the local liberals started chasing me with a butterfly net.

seriously

the wooden handled brushes that you mention are called "stainless steel toothbrushes" and are a common tool at welding shops and welding supply shops. you just have to ask for them as they probably are in a bin under the counter. they come with stainless, brass, and fiber bristles but the welders only use the stainless ones.