Model Railroading > Should I use a Helix ??

I am considering putting a helix on my layout, especially since TrainStyles is offering a kit. I have no desire to build one myself.

My worry is that a helix could be a source of constant derailments. I like to run 30-35 car trains. The Easy Helix has 28" and 30.75" radius for the two tracks (HO scale) and a 2.25% grade. I know my trackwork will have to be good.

I am interested in your thoughts/experience? Do you have a helix with similar grade/radius?

Does anyone have any experience with the Trainstyles kit? Check out http://www.trainstyles.com

Does anyone else offer Helix kits?

TIA

Pete

peterj wrote:

> My worry is that a helix could be a source of constant
> derailments. I like to run 30-35 car trains. The Easy Helix
> has 28" and 30.75" radius for the two tracks (HO scale) and a
> 2.25% grade. I know my trackwork will have to be good.

A helix has no special characteristics making them more prone to derailments than any other type of benchwork. If you lay good track in the open, then you can do the same in a helix.

That said, my advice would be to avoid the snootier, more fragile flextrack such as Micro Engineering, and use Atlas Code 100 in the helix itself. Alternate the sliding rail inside/outside of the curve, solder the joint on one end of the slider, and leave the other end free to slide with expansion. If the joints are smooth and you don\'t kink the rail anythere else, you should have no problem,

>
> I am interested in your thoughts/experience? Do you have a
> helix with similar grade/radius?

I don\'t have a helix, because my layout is too small, but I\'ve been bitten by soldered track expanding in the heat, as well as a kinked rail because I bashed it with a hammer.

Personally, I would avoid helices for aesthetic reasons (the train disappears for a while, they eat floor space), but I have no technical problems with them.

> Pete
>

Like any Model train construction involving trackwork, you only get what you put into it. I agree with your concern about the track being hidden. As with any layout that has hidden or inaccessable track, our fears of derailments in those areas are always in our minds as we construct/build those areas into our layouts.

A helix on a Model railroad layout does serve a purpose or we wouldnt use them. Every time I hear the word "helix" it reminds me of the famed Tehachapi Loop in California as it comes close to being a helix in real railroading. I myself have decided to install one on my new "O" gage layout and I know when I do that I will spend an enormous amount of time constructing it for the reasons mentioned above. I will not be using a kit as none are available for "O" gage. The kits you mention should be fine but try to find someone who has had experience with them. I believe some of the helix kits use a lot of plastic materials so be aware of that. Personally, I prefer wood and/or metal because of the large size of "O" gage and the weight. Some of my locomotives weigh almost 20 pounds.

Your trackwork is most important but even just as important are the locomotives and cars used on your layout. You mention that you do like to run long trains so I suggest that your rolling stock be in compliance with NMRA standards and that includes weighing each car in accordance with those standards. Track superelevation is another area to be adressed so look at the NMRA Standards.

Hope everything works out for you.

Jim

I have built several on my layout in progress and tested one. I built mine with two layers of laminated 1/4" plywood and threaded rods. I can run 30 cars trains on mine with no problems. All of my HO cars are weighted to NMRA standards and I use metal wheels.

My inside radius is 30" and my outside is 32-1/2". I used the foam roadbed from Woodland Scenics and glued it down with "Liquid nails for Projects". Atlas code 100 flex track is used on the helixes. Despite what anyone will tell you, a sqaure profile with a 3" height from top of rail to overhead is all that is necessary even with double stacks. Therefore my grades are very close to 2%.

Building a helix is really not that bad, it\'s more repitition than anything else. It took me forever to cut the plywood curves for my 4-1/2 turn helix. I made templates to mark the centerlines of the track. If you follow strict guidelines on your rolling stock and do good trackwork, a helix could be the most reliable sections of track on your layout.

I have built several different size helix\'s and found that if your going to run long trains w/ long cars (auto-racks, 89 flats) you probably want to go with a larger radius. I currently have a 48" radius (8\' diameter) helix with 7 levels. I can run almost anything, but a long auto-rack train (30+ cars) still tilts in pretty good. I superelevated my track outwards to help this problem. Good luck,
Rob Zeno MI

zman1437 wrote:
I
> currently have a 48" radius (8\' diameter) helix with 7 levels.
> I can run almost anything, but a long auto-rack train (30+
> cars) still tilts in pretty good.

Are your autoracks weighted to NMRA specs?

Fortunately for me I model the early 1950\'s so most of my freight cars are 40 and 50 footers with most 40 footers. And my passenger traina with 87 foot cars are not that long.

One thing that may disappoint you is the operation of model steam on a helix. They just don\'t pull like diesels do--even the higher tech plastic steamers.

Many of the brass steamers, particularly the older ones won\'t run worth beans on a helix. Many need large radius curves. My Hallmark 4-8-2 just barely makes the 30" radius on the helix and only pulls 10 cars up the 2% grade. (Which isn\'t really bad for an older brass steamer.)I suppose one could add more wieght etc but the diesels have the edge with shorter wheel bases (trucks)and a lower center of gravity.


Some Bowser steam locomotives can outpull diesels but I\'ve never seen how their rigid wheelbases work on a helix. Just a heads up on operating steam locomotives on a helix.

And one last item and I\'ll get off my soapbox.

Steam locos with the standard drawbar/electrical connection btw the tender and loco don\'t work backing up a long train going up the helix.

The drawbar jackknifes with the weight behind it. And even if your tender doesn\'t jackknife, it may cause intermitant electrical problems with the drawbar connection. Been there done that.

With diesels, I\'ve run my trains backwards and forwards up and down a helix at full speed with no problems (the acid test). But not so with steam locos.