Model Railroading > N scale track question

Hello, I was seeking out some advice a few weeks ago but still striking out -- I have Peco code 55 track on my layout but unfortunately they do not make a rerail/crossing type piece of track. So I'm struggling to come up with a user friendly idea how to use the Atlas code 55 crossings  that are available (the metal joiners are way different)  but pretty much striking out -- any new idea's or suggestions ?  Thanks Tom

I'm guessing that one rail is a different thickness than the other so the joiner won't slide on.  If so, with a small file reduce the width of the thick web and or the thickness of the base ( the top ).  If your track is attached to the layout you could open up the throat of the smaller rail joiner so the fat rail will slide in.  One of those two methods should work.
John

C'mon over to Railwire, Trainboard, or nscale.net where you'll find an n-centric home and all the opinions you'd ever want.

But you can grind off the BOTTOM of the base on Peco C55 with a Dremel abrasive disk (after removing a tie) leaving only the top part of the rail intact, and slip on a standard C55 joiner.    Or, as you can see precious little of the rail side anyway on a rerailer section, just use an Atlas C80 rerailer and you'll find out that the Atlas C80 rail mates up very closely to the Peco C55 section once you cut the ties out and study it.   Use the folded metal Peco joiners in both situations, not the Atlas rounded ones.   I've mated up all manner of C80 to Peco C55 with no real issues, particularly a set of 60-degree crossings.

Thanks Guys -- I believe the Green light came on !! 

Or why do you need a rerailer section in your track work?  You probably dont Need a rerailer or need one just because someone makes one. If you want a road crossing that looks like a road crossing there are several mfgs that have laser cut wood thats perfect.
RB

If you are using the re-rails for a crossing... you can make a better looking one with some small strip wood (match sticks, scale lumber, etc) colored black/dark brown with some markers.  Just cut and glue them inside and out side the rails just like the real railroads do it.

If you want the re-railing feature to make it easier to place cars on the track by hand... you can cut some styrene into a couple simple shapes and mimic the factory ones.  The advantage to this option is that you can put these anywhere you want, don't need to match different rail joiners, and its much cheaper if you need more than one.  It very easy too.

Here is a picture of the shapes you will need.  You can determine the exact sizes by laying the styrene on your track and marking the rail locations.  Leave a small flange gap on the inside of the rails.  Butt the styrene up to the outside of the rail; no gap.  For code 55 rail I would use .060 styrene and bevel the edges down to rail height (.055).  All of the pointed ends of the shapes need to be beveled to form the "ramp" that guides the flanges into the rail gauge.

Rick Bacon
Windsor, CO

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