Model Railroading > Rapido RDC

Have you received your new RDC from Rapido?  What's your opinion, detail and operation-wise?  I won't give mine yet so that replies will be unbiased.

I got my ATSF set with sound, haven’t run them yet but they look awesome!

Posted from iPhone

They are pretty neat, and the sound is spot on.  

Which railroads are included in this run?

Gerry

Got my Rock Island RDC-3 (9002) a couple of days ago.  Have not had a chance to run it on the layout yet.

Sounded good when test run at the Train Shop.  Detail looks good to my eye.

Looking forward to running it soon.

Bob

Got my GN unit and it looks and runs beautifully.  Only issue I have is I can't get the shell off to put in passengers. Followed instructions and even tried to pry it with a screwdrive but the body won't come loose.  anybody else solved this problem..
Mike Stewart
Oakley, CA

I am running a set of New York Central RDC-3 RDC-1 RDC-2.  No problems.  I still need to get Kadee 152 couplers on them to bring cars closer together.

John

Try Cal-Scale #302 dummy couplers.  They couple closer than Kadees.
CJV in Illinois

Ok, now it's my turn!  I can't get over the amount of detail on my Santa Fe units and the people and lights.  I don't know how brass could ever have been better.  The brief running test wasn't so great, however, and my old Proto 1000 units run better in slow speed and on curves.  Much more weight might be the answer.  One question, does anyone know the location and type of bell these units had?  And one final observance, good luck getting the two units back into the colorful sleeve they came in.  I had to do some surgery on the sleeve to make them fit.

cabman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ok, now it's my turn!  I can't get over the
> amount of detail on my Santa Fe units and the
> people and lights.  I don't know how brass could
> ever have been better.  The brief running test
> wasn't so great, however, and my old Proto 1000
> units run better in slow speed and on curves. 
> Much more weight might be the answer.  One
> question, does anyone know the location and type
> of bell these units had?  And one final
> observance, good luck getting the two units back
> into the colorful sleeve they came in.  I had to
> do some surgery on the sleeve to make them fit.

You need to run them for about an hour or so so that the gears can "run in" and so the decoder can adjust to the motor.
You will see a difference!

PHall Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> cabman Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Ok, now it's my turn!  I can't get over the
> > amount of detail on my Santa Fe units and the
> > people and lights.  I don't know how brass
> could
> > ever have been better.  The brief running test
> > wasn't so great, however, and my old Proto 1000
> > units run better in slow speed and on curves. 
> > Much more weight might be the answer.  One
> > question, does anyone know the location and
> type
> > of bell these units had?  And one final
> > observance, good luck getting the two units
> back
> > into the colorful sleeve they came in.  I had
> to
> > do some surgery on the sleeve to make them fit.
>
> You need to run them for about an hour or so so
> that the gears can "run in" and so the decoder can
> adjust to the motor.
> You will see a difference!

Also we found that a CV setting on some of the units had a glitch. If the motor is jerky at slow speeds, set CV 52 to a value of 25 or lower. Some of them had the CV set at a higher value and it is causing the issue.

Also also do the CV 54 "awesome slow speed thingy" as described in the instructions. I do that for all of my personal models. It makes a huge difference.

-Jason