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Model Railroading > Old Athearn metal underframe question


Date: 04/05/20 14:22
Old Athearn metal underframe question
Author: bruce_e

Hello.

I have a couple of neat, old Athearn blue box SW1500 Calf Diesel Switchers. They are unpowered dummy locomotives.

On both units, one end has a missing coupler. Just like with all the blue box models I know, a Coupler Cover (part 90602) snaps onto the draft gear "space" on the metal Underframe (part 41018).

Does anyone have advice or alterntative methods to intall the couplers on these units? It's the metal underframe that I haven't worked with before. Or do I just stick with the original design?

Thanks!
 






Date: 04/05/20 15:04
Re: Old Athearn metal underframe question
Author: grahamline

Kadee's  #20 series has an insulated plastic shank that will prevent electrical shorting through the metal underframe. Is that what you're looking for?



Date: 04/05/20 15:17
Re: Old Athearn metal underframe question
Author: bruce_e

Hi, and thanks for the info.
As it turns out, I am looking for the best way to keep the coupler box together. Will friction from the metal clip do the job? On plastic cars, the solution is to drill, tap, and put in a screw.
I am hoping folks with experience with this older type of car have advice.



Date: 04/05/20 18:44
Re: Old Athearn metal underframe question
Author: boejoe

Whenever I had an Athearn metal spring clip cover that was loose (not stay in place satisfactorily) I would bend it slightly with needle nose pliers to provide more friction against the coupler box.  I also coated mine with primer and paint or varnish to prevent rusting in damp atmosphere.



Date: 04/05/20 20:36
Re: Old Athearn metal underframe question
Author: ALCO630

My expierience has always been that a standard Kadee in the Athern mount is to high. I always cut the piece of the frame where the coupler is out and body mount the couplers.

Doug Wetherhold
Macungie, PA



Date: 04/05/20 20:40
Re: Old Athearn metal underframe question
Author: ALCO630

boejoe Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Whenever I had an Athearn metal spring clip cover
> that was loose (not stay in place satisfactorily)
> I would bend it slightly with needle nose pliers
> to provide more friction against the coupler
> box.  I also coated mine with primer and paint or
> varnish to prevent rusting in damp atmosphere.

I drill out the center pin with that Buckeye drilling jig that A-Line makes and use a 2-56 screw to hold the clip on.

Doug Wetherhold
Macungie, PA



Date: 04/06/20 08:32
Re: Old Athearn metal underframe question
Author: cabman

I agree with BOEJOE's advice.  A little super glue applied judiciously wouldn't hurt to hold the clip in place just for good measure.



Date: 04/06/20 09:07
Re: Old Athearn metal underframe question
Author: tramfan

I agree with Alco630's advice. That way you have your choice of couplers and won't have a shorting problem with a metal shank.



Date: 04/06/20 11:01
Re: Old Athearn metal underframe question
Author: Kemacprr

No shorting issue with those dummy plastic wheels. -------- Ken 



Date: 04/07/20 08:44
Re: Old Athearn metal underframe question
Author: tramfan

Kemacprr Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> No shorting issue with those dummy plastic wheels.
> -------- Ken 

Not trying to start an argument. Yes, I saw the plastic wheelsets. Plastic wheels gather dirt and affect operation. Hence, my club doesn't allow equipment with plastic wheels. NWSL used to offer brass wheelsets for Athearn dummy trucks.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/07/20 08:47 by tramfan.



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