Model Railroading > Yet another decoder problem

With a TCS T-1 in an Atlas RSD-5.

When I put it on the track, no matter what the throttle is programmed or which direction it’s set, it goes forward at full speed.

It does it with 3 different decoders but works perfectly fine using a dummy plug and address 00 and (surprise), works perfectly fine on straight dc.

I’ve triple checked, and yes, it is wired correctly.

Thoughts?

Soapbox rant. And people don’t understand why I have the hatred for DCC that I do.

Posted from iPhone

Doug Wetherhold
Macungie, PA

Is your layout DCC only or do you run DC also?
I/We have had this problem on 2 layouts that ran both. That went away after DCC only was done.
I don't care for DCC ether but its getting shoved down our throats. We have two chooses, Leave the hobby or go with it. 

Tim
Hanesworth

This is something I do not understand as I was DC only, gave up model RRs but one day saw a DCC train engine run and tried it. Started with a Bachmann ON30 engine and some track and the NCE starter system of a handheld and a wall wort power supply.  DCC works very nice and is much easier to wire and run than DC. So am wondering if most of the hate comes from not understanding how simple it can be? Just a thought as have learned much because my next venture is an ongoing try at building a large ON30 layout with so far over 40 DCC controled switches and so far two reversing loops in a 20x40 room. I have had problems that I caused myself and have worked out almost all of them now. Having no one within 80 miles to draw from am on my own.

sp8234 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Is your layout DCC only or do you run DC also?
> I/We have had this problem on 2 layouts that ran
> both. That went away after DCC only was done.
> I don't care for DCC ether but its getting shoved
> down our throats. We have two chooses, Leave the
> hobby or go with it. 
>
> Tim
> Hanesworth

No home layout. This was with test tracks on the bench. And I’m not likely to make to the club layout ths weekend

Looking for suggestions on where to start for when I have time to look closer.

Posted from iPhone

Doug Wetherhold
Macungie, PA



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/14/20 06:22 by ALCO630.

When I had what sounds like a similar runaway problem with an Atlas GP38, I replaced the Atlas dual-mode circuit board with whatever their replacement is, and then re-installed the decoder.  That solved the problem for me, and it has not recurred.

Jim

Yeah it sounds like it is on DC?
1st step
Put it on the programming track. Can you read the decoder?
That is where I would start. If you can read it, be sure to set 
the toggle (CV)  to turn off DC operations. If the decoder
can be programmed you installed it right.  If you can't, then there is your issue. 
If it still does the runaway, When you move back to the piece of track; I'd look
at what ever the track is you are putting it on, no matter how much you think
it's right. Maybe put a DC engine on it. See what happens. Put a working DCC engine 
on the same track.  Does _that_ engine work normally? If so 
then I'd begin to suspect a bad decoder. 
Some basics

inyosub Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Yeah it sounds like it is on DC?
> 1st step
> Put it on the programming track. Can you read the
> decoder?
> That is where I would start. If you can read it,
> be sure to set 
> the toggle (CV)  to turn off DC operations. If
> the decoder
> can be programmed you installed it right.  If
> you can't, then there is your issue. 
> If it still does the runaway, When you move back
> to the piece of track; I'd look
> at what ever the track is you are putting it on,
> no matter how much you think
> it's right. Maybe put a DC engine on it. See what
> happens. Put a working DCC engine 
> on the same track.  Does _that_ engine work
> normally? If so 
> then I'd begin to suspect a bad decoder. 
> Some basics

I tried all of that, and it all checks out. I guess it's possible, but I find it hard to believe that 3 brand new decoders are bad with the same issue.

That's why I prefer straight DC. It's so much easier to troubleshoot.

Posted from iPhone

Doug Wetherhold
Macungie, PA



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/14/20 13:59 by ALCO630.

ALCO630 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> inyosub Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Yeah it sounds like it is on DC?
> > 1st step
> > Put it on the programming track. Can you read
> the
> > decoder?
> > That is where I would start. If you can read
> it,
> > be sure to set 
> > the toggle (CV)  to turn off DC operations. If
> > the decoder
> > can be programmed you installed it right.  If
> > you can't, then there is your issue. 
> > If it still does the runaway, When you move
> back
> > to the piece of track; I'd look
> > at what ever the track is you are putting it
> on,
> > no matter how much you think
> > it's right. Maybe put a DC engine on it. See
> what
> > happens. Put a working DCC engine 
> > on the same track.  Does _that_ engine work
> > normally? If so 
> > then I'd begin to suspect a bad decoder. 
> > Some basics
>
> I tried all of that, and it all checks out. I
> guess it's possible, but I find it hard to believe
> that 3 brand new decoders are bad with the same
> issue.
>
> That's why I prefer straight DC. It's so much
> easier to troubleshoot.
>
> Posted from iPhone

How about the "mother board" that the decoder plugs in to? Any problems with that?

Well I dont believe this One choice or Get Out stuff.  I have N with near 100 locos. COST is why I am not switching. Still plenty to buy without DCC if you want it. 
And IMO, sound is pretty phony, still  

PHall Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> ALCO630 Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > inyosub Wrote:
> >
> --------------------------------------------------
>
> > -----
> > > Yeah it sounds like it is on DC?
> > > 1st step
> > > Put it on the programming track. Can you read
> > the
> > > decoder?
> > > That is where I would start. If you can read
> > it,
> > > be sure to set 
> > > the toggle (CV)  to turn off DC operations.
> If
> > > the decoder
> > > can be programmed you installed it right. 
> If
> > > you can't, then there is your issue. 
> > > If it still does the runaway, When you move
> > back
> > > to the piece of track; I'd look
> > > at what ever the track is you are putting it
> > on,
> > > no matter how much you think
> > > it's right. Maybe put a DC engine on it. See
> > what
> > > happens. Put a working DCC engine 
> > > on the same track.  Does _that_ engine work
> > > normally? If so 
> > > then I'd begin to suspect a bad decoder. 
> > > Some basics
> >
> > I tried all of that, and it all checks out. I
> > guess it's possible, but I find it hard to
> believe
> > that 3 brand new decoders are bad with the same
> > issue.
> >
> > That's why I prefer straight DC. It's so much
> > easier to troubleshoot.
> >
> > Posted from iPhone
>
> How about the "mother board" that the decoder
> plugs in to? Any problems with that?

Hardwired right to the trucks and motor and headlights.

Doug Wetherhold
Macungie, PA

DCC puts 14-18 volts on the track, so your lokie taking off full speed sounds like
it is getting the track power like it should but the dcc signal is not being received,
or the signal is there but the decoder is not reading it.

If you have other locomotives that work on DCC then the DCC signal is there and the
problem is at the decoder (or wiring to the decoder).  If no others run on DCC then
there is something wrong with your dcc system.

I love my dcc system and all my locos run flawlessly on DCC.  I would never go back to DC.

WrongWayMurphy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> DCC puts 14-18 volts on the track, so your lokie
> taking off full speed sounds like
> it is getting the track power like it should but
> the dcc signal is not being received,
> or the signal is there but the decoder is not
> reading it.
>
> If you have other locomotives that work on DCC
> then the DCC signal is there and the
> problem is at the decoder (or wiring to the
> decoder).  If no others run on DCC then
> there is something wrong with your dcc system.
>
> I love my dcc system and all my locos run
> flawlessly on DCC.  I would never go back to DC.

It's a Digitrax Zephyr with test programming track and a test track that only is used to work on stuff at home.

Posted from iPhone

Doug Wetherhold
Macungie, PA

Ok but do other DCC locos work properly?

WrongWayMurphy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ok but do other DCC locos work properly?

Yes they do. It only seems to be this one with a decoder (3 of them) and it also works fne on DC with a dummy plug in the harness.

Posted from iPhone

Doug Wetherhold
Macungie, PA

One has to wonder are you wiring the T1 up incorrectly as to fry each and every one?
A fried decoder will act like you describe.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/14/20 16:14 by WrongWayMurphy.

Sounds like fried decoder or a short

Posted from iPhone

Got home tonight and sat down to look at it, and it worked perfectly. I tried the other 2 decoders and they worked also.

Now going to bang my head against the wall. Thanks everybody for your input.

Posted from iPhone

Doug Wetherhold
Macungie, PA



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/14/20 19:54 by ALCO630.