Model Railroading > UP OMI 8500 Turbine Repair Disaster

I need a recommendation who to contact for a "professional" repair for the issue I'll describe below.

Problem: I attempted to replace the "slipping" ball joint that fits into the female coupler on the rear truck of the "B" unit (this is a known problem with the OMI drive train).  The original OMI ball joints are plastic and several modelers recommended using brass ball joints as replacement parts which require soldering to the drive shaft.  OK, I screwed up, and melted the plastic female coupler on the rear truck.

As Clint Eastwood, the noted model railroader said, "A man has got to know his limitations"!  So I need some recommendations who can replace the female coupler/ball joint assembly and reinstall the drive train correctly.

Joe, your humbled modeler living in Castle Rock, CO on the Joint Line 

jsnoy Wrote:
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> I need a recommendation who to contact for a
> "professional" repair for the issue I'll describe
> below.
>
> Problem: I attempted to replace the "slipping"
> ball joint that fits into the female coupler on
> the rear truck of the "B" unit (this is a known
> problem with the OMI drive train).  The original
> OMI ball joints are plastic and several modelers
> recommended using brass ball joints as replacement
> parts which require soldering to the drive shaft.
>  OK, I screwed up, and melted the plastic female
> coupler on the rear truck.
>
> As Clint Eastwood, the noted model railroader
> said, "A man has got to know his limitations"!
>  So I need some recommendations who can replace
> the female coupler/ball joint assembly and
> reinstall the drive train correctly.
>
> Joe, your humbled modeler living in Castle Rock,
> CO on the Joint Line 
Not a disaster, a teachable moment.
The melted female joint slips off the gear shaft. Get a new one from American Scale Models or NWSL.
Did you try to solder the new brass balls while they were in position?
Still a easy fix with in your abilities and limitations.
Also, depending on who made the brass balls for you, you may have to trim the two wings/arms. They may hit the screw that holds the truck to the frame. Not a lot mind you, just a little.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/03/21 17:13 by needles_sub.

After getting two diffrent older brass engines with B B trucks and fighting with trying to make them work usin NWSL parts gave up and put them in a display case.  Mine were Alco brand and due to the way they are set up one truck never has enough weight on it.

BAB Wrote:
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> After getting two diffrent older brass engines
> with B B trucks and fighting with trying to make
> them work usin NWSL parts gave up and put them in
> a display case.  Mine were Alco brand and due to
> the way they are set up one truck never has enough
> weight on it.

Alco models required far more work to run and track properly.
I still have my first brass model, an Alco models SD-40-2. I worked on it off and on over a period of years. Runs smooth now, but still sounds like a coffee grinder.

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