Model Railroading > Future Home of the Dominion & Southern Railroad

It's been a short 4 years since I was last a member of TO, and much has changed for me in that time.  Possibly the most significant was coming into a little windfall that has finally given me the financial shot in the arm I'd been needing for a minute.  That windfall has allowed me to put up a pole barn next to my house in Northern Virginia which will, over the next several years, become the home of the "Dominion & Southern Railroad" (DSRR).  It's actually pretty nice in a way, my property backs up to the NS B-line (B13.4) and I can sit in my living room and watch trains from the comfort of my sofa or on my deck if I like.  

Onto the pole barn though; it's a 42ft x 64ft barn with 14ft ceilings.  Originally, the entire building was going to be for the railroad, but I decided about halfway through construction to add a partition wall 24 feet in to provide room for a bathroom, and reinforce the concrete foundation for a hydraulic lift so I could work on my various toys besides the model railroad.  (ATVs, Tractor, Truck, etc.)  This also afforded me the ability to make room for a nice little fitness area/gym.  The building already has a 3-ton Carrier HVAC system built into the ceiling, so the trainroom has absolutely ZERO vertical obstructions to build around.  

The train room itself is 41x40ft, and of course retains the 14ft ceilings.  I'm still in the process of framing out the building, but I'm about 99% done with that phase, and I'll be pulling final electrical circuits this week or next.  After that, insulation and then the arduous process of putting up drywall.  Mud, sanding, and then of course painting which I'm probably going to contract out to someone else so they can deal with the frustration.  :)  

I've also assembled an array of canless LED multi-color smartlights, and a friend of mine who works in Arduino as a hobby is helping develop an app that will synch the lights up to a fast clock which will allow full simulation of all manner of lighting conditions to include day, night, dusk and dawn.  I want to be able to have actualy nighttime operations on my model railroad.  

The railroad itself is freelance, although more of a compilation of many of my favorite real world locations such as Point of Rocks, MD; Rockville Bridge; the C&O Alleghany Sub; and Sandpatch, plus a few southwestern locations like Tehachapi Loop just to name a few.  The "backstory" as it were is constructed around the idea of two Class 1 railroads; NS and CSX operating on separate levels, and a shortline; the DSRR acting as a bridge line to connect the two routes.  The shortline has a substantial climb to negotiate between the two levels, and as such provides manned helper service to get the various road trains over the road, although the NS/CSX trains regularly turn up with their own DPs as well.  The DSRR also has some online industries such as an aggregate quarry, a business park, and a transload terminal to service; among others.  

Track plan is currently under development, but will likely be what I'm referring to as a "hybrid double-decker".  That is to say, the lower level will be at generally one elevation, while the upper level transitions from one height to another as you move from one side of the room to the other.  On the "lower" side of the second level, there will be another level that will be accessible only by running certain directions (for dispatcher/operational challenge) that will ultimately be on the same elevation as the higher side of the second level.  

Since this question gets asked every time I mention it out in public, no, this is not a club layout.  I don't like clubs because every decision is made by committee, and more often by whoever has the more dominant personality in committee meetings/work sessions.  

Sean Hoyden
Broad Run, VA

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Congratulatios.  Best wishes.  Welcome back.  Keep us updated from time to time on progress.  Also a view of the B line now and then.  Good luck.

Looking good!  Nice space for a model RR!

Use spray insulation on the underside of the roof, on the rafter areas and outside walls.   Your heating and cooling costs will drastically cut down operating costs.  You will never regret it.

Not doing spray insulation. I’ll be using batts and blown-in fiberglass for the attic.

Posted from iPhone

Sean Hoyden
Broad Run, VA

Really neat space and I applaud the multi use aspect. Can't be model trains all the time right?

Multi use? I think you have lost your focus on whats important. lol Great building, youve had a great start, good luck on your new projects.

Neat! Having that transition between levels removes the need for a helix. Keep us updated.

-Dave

djh4d Wrote:
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> Neat! Having that transition between levels
> removes the need for a helix. Keep us updated.
>
> -Dave

Kind of.  I'm going to have a Tehachapi Loop of sorts in the middle of the lower level that aids in the transition to the upper level.  It'll only be one loop like the real one to make up the difference between the lower level which is planned for 44", and the lowest end of the upper level at 58".  The upper level will have a maximum height of 74-76" on one side of the room, so trains going to the upper level will have quite a lengthy grade to battle to get to the summit.  I have plenty of run for it, so I should easily be able to keep the ruling grade under 2%.  This is one of the reasons I wanted to do free-lance; I don't have to try and force a prototype track plan to fit into my space.  I can still enjoy inspiration from real world locations, but then still have the freedom to add things that I want to see. 

Sean Hoyden
Broad Run, VA

So basically a no-lix design.  I was able to maintain a modest grade to get my staging yard up over to the main yard above with about a 10" clearance - max grade is 1.8% on one stretch and 1.5% on another and some 0.9% grades and a couple of short flat areas.

Cheers,
jim

SPDRGWfan Wrote:
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> So basically a no-lix design.  I was able to
> maintain a modest grade to get my staging yard up
> over to the main yard above with about a 10"
> clearance - max grade is 1.8% on one stretch and
> 1.5% on another and some 0.9% grades and a couple
> of short flat areas.
>
> Cheers,
> jim

Yeah, I'm not a fan of helices.  I figure if I have to run a train in circles, why can't I stretch that circle out a little bit and make it part of the scenery?  I have the space to do it in, so what do I have to lose? 

Sean Hoyden
Broad Run, VA

Good stuff, Sean. Glad to see you back in the hobby and here on TO!
-Alex

Posted from iPhone

Exciting!

Posted from iPhone

hoydie17 Wrote:
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> Not doing spray insulation. I’ll be using batts
> and blown-in fiberglass for the attic.
>
> Posted from iPhone
Know its your buiding but just wondering why the large garage door if its going to be a model RR building?  They are very hard to insulate as good as a wall. I chose stick built two story instead of a pole building as the cost was about the same due to the fact by the time its studded out you have the same cost as a stick built. Mine I had to and also had planned to have it the same as my house super good sense it didnt cost very much more.  Good luch on your RR still working on mine. Boyd in Chiloquin home of Train Mountain RR Oh ps its going to be too small no matter what as I found out mine is 40x60 and my RV bay is too tight in width and lengh....................yup. my train room is 45x20 other side of the upstairs is wifes quilting sweing room. both full Do yours your way on the RR and dont worry about others how they want your layout done.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/14/21 07:48 by BAB.

It's probably hard to see, but there's a partition wall inside that separates the garage/workshop area from the model railroad area.  The building is overall 42ft by 64ft, but only 42x40ft is the train room.  The entire building will be insulated and drywalled, but the train room will be fully isolated from the workshop area and thus the large garage door. 

BAB Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> hoydie17 Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Not doing spray insulation. I’ll be using
> batts
> > and blown-in fiberglass for the attic.
> >
> > Posted from iPhone
> Know its your buiding but just wondering why the
> large garage door if its going to be a model RR
> building?  They are very hard to insulate as good
> as a wall. I chose stick built two story instead
> of a pole building as the cost was about the same
> due to the fact by the time its studded out you
> have the same cost as a stick built. Mine I had to
> and also had planned to have it the same as my
> house super good sense it didnt cost very much
> more.  Good luch on your RR still working on
> mine. Boyd in Chiloquin home of Train Mountain RR
> Oh ps its going to be too small no matter what as
> I found out mine is 40x60 and my RV bay is too
> tight in width and lengh....................yup.
> my train room is 45x20 other side of the upstairs
> is wifes quilting sweing room. both full Do yours
> your way on the RR and dont worry about others how
> they want your layout done.

Sean Hoyden
Broad Run, VA