Model Railroading > Aggravating Decoder Install

Hi all.

I recently installed Digitrax DN163K0A decoders into an A/B pair of Kato E8/9's.  The B unit runs flawlessly but that little grey clip in the A unit that's supposed to hold the decoder board against the motor tabs just won't stay put.  It doesn't actually pop out, just doesn't stay tight enough to maintain a solid contact with them. The model runs for a few minutes then just stops.  If I barely tap the clip (and I mean barely), power to the motor is restored.  Tried spreading the locking clips on the bottom of it a bit which worked...for about five minutes.

No question is a dumb question (or so I've read here) sooo..would soldering the motor tabs to the decoder contacts be the best solution?

Thanks in advance!

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Soldering the motor contacts to the decoder is an excellent idea.  Making that 'sure' connection is always preferable to 'Gee, I hope these stay in contact.'

Remember fine, clean tip, dab of flux and quick in and out with the iron.

Cliff Rutherford
Grain Valley, MO

Thanks Cliff.  That's what I figured.

A good soldered connection is ALWAYS better then a friction connection. ALWAYS!

I am an N Scaler too and a big Kato locomotive fan.

In a number of cases I have had one locomotive that will light but no motor.  Turns out to be the same issue you are having. 

I agree with the other posters.  Soldering fixes the issue every-time.   I use a low wattage battery soldering iron and very thin solder and make the connection in the shortest amount of time, making sure the connection is a bright silver once cooled. 

Take care, be safe.

Northridge Switcher

northridgeswitcher Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I am an N Scaler too and a big Kato locomotive
> fan.
>
> In a number of cases I have had one locomotive
> that will light but no motor.  Turns out to be
> the same issue you are having. 
>
> I agree with the other posters.  Soldering fixes
> the issue every-time.   I use a low wattage
> battery soldering iron and very thin solder and
> make the connection in the shortest amount of
> time, making sure the connection is a bright
> silver once cooled. 
>
> Take care, be safe.
>
> Northridge Switcher

Yep, a dull silver connection is a sure sign of a "cold solder joint". Can usually be fixed with another application of the soldering iron.