Model Railroading > Decal Frustration

Today, I cut out a roadname decal and when I soaked it in water the individual letters came off. It's a Micro-Scale set. In all fairness, I purchased it on eBay. Would this be a problem with the decal being too old? I just ordered another set from Microscale. Hopefully, I'll fair better next time.

Victor B.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/22 13:14 by wabash2800.

What set number is it?  What is the application?  Perhaps each letter was put on its own individual decal backing for individual application between each vertical post or vertical "rib".  I've had great luck with Microscale decals, even with using older sets that are > 20 years old..  Then again, I try to store my decals in a cool and dry place in a sealed container.

Cheers,
Harry

Harry: It was from set 84-434 used for covered hoppers. Perhaps, as you say,  since there are vertical columns on the model, it was intended that way? It suprised me. I cut the roadname in half, figured the spacing btw the middle and rib on my bridge and thought I was ready to go...

It would seem that they would have made the roadname one section and then let the modeler cut out the letters if need be instead of all the indivdual letters falling off the contact sheet.

Victor B.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/22 13:33 by wabash2800.

When I seached Microscale's web site for set 84-434 just now, the site response is "no products matched your search criteria".

Jim

Could it be 87-434 (Airslide hoppers). The first two digits in the Micsoscale numbering system represent the scale - HO is 1:87. Some of the road names appear to have spacing/gaps for vertical ridges.

Jim Kleeman

 



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/15/22 14:25 by JayK.

> When I seached Microscale's web site for set
> 84-434 just now, the site response is "no products
> matched your search criteria".

Old set for Wabash, CB&Q, L&N, and B&O hoppers. Found one on eBay and it looks like the spacing on the sheet is about what Microscale uses when the letters are individual. You can tilt the sheet with strong light and see if the film has edges around the letters. These edges are feathered and easier to hide than knife/scissor cuts.

Yes, 87-434. Sorry.

Victor

JayK Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Could it be 87-434 (Airslide hoppers). The first
> two digits in the Micsoscale numbering system
> represent the scale - HO is 1:87. Some of the road
> names appear to have spacing/gaps for vertical
> ridges.
>
> Jim Kleeman
>
>  

As an aside if it's really old and falling apart. Spray a coating of clear over the sheet befor cutting anything out.  I use rattle can flat as it speeds the weathering process.
john

I've been having trouble with them too.
Brand new sheets that if I trim too close to the decal, it falls apart

BNModeler Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I've been having trouble with them too.
> Brand new sheets that if I trim too close to the
> decal, it falls apart

The best way I've found is to minimize any issues is to start with  a *fresh* blade on your hobby knife. Dull knives will only aggravate problems with applying decals as you cut too close to the film.  Microscale uses a "thin-film" decal foundation layer that practically disappears into the surface once applied using their instructions.  "old-school" decals from other "old-name" brands have much thicker film which is more resistant to damage, but tend not to look as nice once fully applied.  Just MHO.. YMMV.

Cheers,
Harry

^^^ what Harry said ^^^

Also since we're sharing tips - don't start with a flat finish.  Start with a gloss, apply decals, then you can dull it down.  === no film!

Microscale prints the decal film, which is nice snice as it creates tapered edges to the decal film that hides easily unlike the cut edges of other decals. The decal film is just around letters or sets of letters. That set in particular is divided up to fit between the ribs of the car. Which roadname where you trying to apply to the car?

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

If you're already looking on the Microscale page, Have you looked at Liquid Decal Film to rejuvenate old, thin, or cracked decals and make them useable?
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=77dfb8f8abf513ee5c1bffe3bdafd767&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=MI-12&Category_Code=FINPROD

Typical Microscale problems

I am using black "Wabash" lettering from a covered hopper car set to apply on the side of a sliver-colored steel bridge I'm scrachbuilding. It is the right size and looks great.

Victor

funnelfan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Microscale prints the decal film, which is nice
> snice as it creates tapered edges to the decal
> film that hides easily unlike the cut edges of
> other decals. The decal film is just around
> letters or sets of letters. That set in particular
> is divided up to fit between the ribs of the car.
> Which roadname where you trying to apply to the
> car?

WAF Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Typical Microscale problems

Yet many have used them for decades...

wabash2800 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I am using black "Wabash" lettering from a covered
> hopper car set to apply on the side of a
> sliver-colored steel bridge I'm scrachbuilding. It
> is the right size and looks great.

The WABASH lettering in that set is designed to be just the individual letters on their own bit of decal film for each letter. So nothing to do with the age of the set. If you hold up the decal set at a angle to the light, you can see the decal film around the various bits of lettering.
 

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR