Model Railroading > There has to be a better way

A better way to uncouple Kadee couplers, that is.

I have a switching layout, lots of spotting and picking up cars, 

I have always used a pick to twist between couplers to split them as shown,
and it works probably 75% of the time, but the other 25% is frustrating as the
couplers won't release and one has to raise one car to free it from the next.

I know about the undertrack magnets but that won't work for me, too much back and forth 
and unintended uncoupling would be just as frustrating, and it's not just me, all my visiting
operators experience the same.

 Is there a tool I am lacking to make life easier for me and my fellow operators?

 

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> and it works probably 75% of the time, but the
> other 25% is frustrating as the
> couplers won't release and one has to raise one
> car to free it from the next.

Kadee makes a pick that should get you up to 90%. Cheap. It also works with shelf couplers.
 

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Make sure the cars to be un-coupled are "bunched". And, some places could use the op top of the tie magnets, for example, an industry that is the last one in the siding.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/13/23 06:33 by tomstp.

While we're on this subject, what is the best way to uncouple passenger cars with diaphragms equipped with Kadees? Is there a tool for that?

Posted from iPhone

One possible option made by Rix Products...
https://rixproducts.com/product/rix-uncoupling-tool-ho/

~ Mr. MRL

Lighter Wrote:
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> > and it works probably 75% of the time, but the
> > other 25% is frustrating as the
> > couplers won't release and one has to raise one
> > car to free it from the next.
>
> Kadee makes a pick that should get you up to 90%.
> Cheap. It also works with shelf couplers.
>  

I've used these for years. No better then wood skewers in my experience. Some say micro brushes work great, but I haven't found the right combo for that yet. Truth is our tight radius and longer cars are going to be problematic. 

I've read rubbing a graphite stick along the coupler face helps. I'm going to try that soon.

I think it's Peco that makes the holder with a magnet on each side, kind of like a fork, and it's next to useless.

I use barbecue skewers, but, as noted, they do not always work. I keep a few Rix twin-magnet uncouplers on hand for when the skewers fail.

Arrt House

If all else fails there's always the 0-5-0 switcher!

There may be a better way . . . Some folks would say the technique illustrated with the KO&G and Katy cars needs improvement:  The trick being to take some slack with the pinkie finger while the uncoupler stick does its work.  This requires some degree of ambidexterity, as the slack should be taken in the car away from the engine, which has more slack movement.

Years past, I found going into the knuckles worked well in N scale, while in HO was better to pull or push against the "glad hand."  Now in my golden years I find uncoupling to be more difficult than it used to was.

When do we operate?

Bob Willer
Flatlands
 

Definitely needs some slack, with a little practise you can use the pick to set the KD delayed action mode to push a car to a spot.

+ agree there's a point when the 'twist' happens, depending on which coupler is being used the twist direction changes. I have only used the pick behind the coupler face, the idea is to prevent the couplers from latching together with the little lip.

There's quite a few different methods being discussed here. Read carefully so as not to confuse them.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/13/23 18:00 by TCnR.

This tool is the only way we used to uncouple cars on our massive layout that used to be at the Nebraska State Fair. They work great.
Steve

MrMRL Wrote:
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> One possible option made by Rix Products...
> https://rixproducts.com/product/rix-uncoupling-too
> l-ho/
>
> ~ Mr. MRL

I found while switching on a large railroad that skewers worked pretty good. I would stick it down between the knuckles and that worked most of the time, but not always. Then just used the thin skewer below the coupler to the little uncoupling arm with much more success. I felt silly as it was starting me right in the face the whole time.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/13/23 20:01 by TomG.

I don't remember where I learned about these, but I've had good success with them.  They're made using dental picks with the soft rubbery ends.  I make them using a piece of 3/8" oak dowel and a piece of .094" O.D. brass tubing.  To uncouple, you bunch the couplers together, insert the tip between the knuckles and slightly rotate the handle while pulling the cars apart.  They work for me nearly every time.  I don't know how long the rubber tips will last, but the picks could be easily replaced.

-Dennis

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Don't use the pick between the coupler faces. Use it pull the coupler trip pin to one side. Works even better if you use your free hand to create some slack by gently pushing the cars together.

I also attached the skewer to a small LED light from a tweezer kit used to remove ticks. Much easier to see what you are doing.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ozark-Trail-Survival-LED-Tick-and-Splinter-Remover/592954737

Jim Kleeman



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/13/23 17:43 by JayK.

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JayK Wrote:
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> Don't use the pick between the coupler faces. Use
> it pull the coupler trip pin to one side.

When I replied, I should have noted that I've been snipping off the trip pins.  That brings up the old debate "to snip or not to snip".

-Dennis

I am trying to use mostly manual uncoupling on the current layout in progress, however,  I recommend you use an electromagnetic uncoupler for uncoupling passenger cars with diaphragms. Rapido has them that can be installed easily after the layout is built if necessary. It has a blue light that lights up in the track when the magnet is activated remotely. This would come in  handy if you have to exchange cars btw two passenger trains at a station. Obviously, the diaphragms would get in the way if attempting to manually uncouple.

Victor Baird

skokieswift Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> While we're on this subject, what is the best way
> to uncouple passenger cars with diaphragms
> equipped with Kadees? Is there a tool for that?
>
> Posted from iPhone



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/13/23 19:02 by wabash2800.

I have been using the Rix Uncouplers for 4 or so years.  My sucess rate is about 80 to 85 per cent.  The good news is that using the Rix reduced missing knuckle springs signicantly on my layout.
Fred Cheney
Iowa City, Iowa

MrMRL Wrote:
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> One possible option made by Rix Products...
> https://rixproducts.com/product/rix-uncoupling-tool


Hold between thumb and forefinger, insert between 'pivot jaws'(?) of couplers, twist tool slightly using a rolling motion with your digits.  I've had 80-90% success with the N scale version.