Model Railroading > Bending homosote for curves question....

Dear To's,          Before i lose my mind again... what are some techniques for bending homosote for SPLINE curves (30" radius) without breaking?   TIA  Robert162



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/01/25 11:30 by robert162.

You can cut kerfs (slits) on the inside of the curve. Cut in about half way.

Victor Baird



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/01/25 10:39 by wabash2800.

You could either cut homasote like plywood to fit the curve or cut staight pieces and cut kerfs.  I ony used homasote as sheets in the yard areas and switched to cork for the single or double track mainline areas.  I'm happy with that solution

Here you can see the transition from Homasote to cork - I had to adjust the height of the subroadbed so it was a flush match.

Cheers,
Jim Fitch

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Do like I did.   Just use cork.   Homasote will not hold spikes very well.   Expands and contracts with moisture.   It cannot be painted easily.  It really is not a good way to go.   I used high grade multi layer plywood, it is very stable does not warp or bend or move around on you after install.   Then cork roadbed, for yards cork sheet.   Then PAINT with regular house paint the entire thing, cork, plywood, top and bottom.   That helps seal out moisture and keeps everything more stable for the long run.   I used an air operated pinning gun and wood glue to put the cork down on the plywood.   The track is a mixture of flex track and Central Valley tie strip, glued down with instant grab contstruction adhiesive, and spiked just to make sure.   After 12 years all is well.    

Rich.

> easily.  It really is not a good way to go. 

Homosote was great in 1960 when Linn Westcott and Model Railroader flogged its use. Time passes.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/25 02:42 by Lighter.

Here is my experience.

I've used Homasote on my previous layout and the current one over the past 12 years.  It holds spike and track nails just fine.  I've had no problems with expansion and contraction, and I've painted it no problem.  The current layout track on Homasote has been installed nearly 5 years so far and no issues.  I'd use it again.  I really like working with Homasote for yard areas.

Cheers,
Jim

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So, "Homasote will not hold spikes very well.   Expands and contracts with moisture.   It cannot be painted easily.  It really is not a good way to go." 

Please see the attached images.  Homasote shown was professionally cut, painted and installed, as were the signals at each control point.

John

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Real track is not perfectly level. You can live with the imperfections with homosote. I never had a problem with spikes or nails not holding. 

For mainline track, you need something like cork or some other thinner material on top to give a realistic sub-grade profile.

 

Or you can purchase pre-contoured homabed:

Homasote Roadbed | Central & Western HomaRoad Supply

Having said that, I have switched over to cork, but do purchase their ramps that are used to transition from mainline to siding.

ns1457 Wrote:

> For mainline track, you need something like cork
> or some other thinner material on top to give a
> realistic sub-grade profile.
 



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/25 14:11 by wabash2800.

On the subject of transitions, I found that using the longest piece of cedar shingle will provide a decent ramp. Usually about 10 to 12 inches long.
CR

Posted from iPhone

WM1977 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> On the subject of transitions, I found that using
> the longest piece of cedar shingle will provide a
> decent ramp. Usually about 10 to 12 inches long.
> CR
>

The thing is you don't even need ramps if you mount the subroad bed at the right eleveation for the transitionl unless you have a large flat table top.  I've never used ramps because I don't need to, nor do others.  If you use open grid or L-girder you can simply match the subroadbed up with the Homasote and that becomes your new zero elevation.  It's not rocket science.

We are talking about the transition from the mainline to the siding at a turnout, say perhaps 1/4" to 3/8" difference in height. The tracks are close together. so using risers isn't always practical for that width. Though I use riser with girds and L-girder, much of my sub roadbed is 3/4 inch plywood. Some modelers go to a lot of trouble using makeshift shims, sanding, etc. to get the smooth transition at the turnout. These Homabed shims make life a lot easier and quicker. It doesn't matter if if you mostly use cork or not.

Victor Baird


SPDRGWfan Wrote:

> The thing is you don't even need ramps if you
> mount the subroad bed at the right eleveation for
> the transitionl unless you have a large flat table
> top.  I've never used ramps because I don't need
> to, nor do others.  If you use open grid or
> L-girder you can simply match the subroadbed up
> with the Homasote and that becomes your new zero
> elevation.  It's not rocket science.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/03/25 14:40 by wabash2800.

wabash2800 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> We are talking about the transition from the
> mainline to the siding at a turnout, say perhaps
> 1/4" to 3/8" difference in height. The tracks are
> close together. so using risers isn't always
> practical for that width. Though I use riser with
> girds and L-girder, much of my sub roadbed is 3/4
> inch plywood. Some modelers go to a lot of trouble
> using makeshift shims, sanding, etc. to get the
> smooth transition at the turnout. These Homabed
> shims make life a lot easier and quicker. It
> doesn't matter if if you mostly use cork or not.
>
> Victor Baird

I'm talking about using sheet Homasote and transitioning to mainline, whether single or double track.

Here's a photo using the transition Homabed ramp, though not as extreme as could be. The roadbed under the track at the far left is 1/4 in. thick Homabed. The sheet of cork under the turnout frog at the right is about 1/8 in thick. I just cut the transition panel at the point that it meets the 1/4 in. homasote and at the point it meets the cork sheet. Easy as pie. (As you know, constant grade is necessary on a turnout versus a bump or change in grade on the turnout if you must have a grade there.) This area is flat on 3/4 in. plywood, sub-roadbed, as it is part of a wye and large grain elevator area. I have some area that will have about 1/4 in. transition and that will come in even more handy.

Victor Baird



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/03/25 17:04 by wabash2800.

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