Model Railroading > The “Close-n-Play” Clamshell

The vast majority of RTR locomotives come packed in a plastic clamshell.  To absorb shock, they added blocks of Styrofoam.  To further protect the finish from abrasion, some barrier sheets are draped over the top, and under the fuel tank.  Some locomotives are placed on the layout, and will never see the inside of the original packaging again.  However, in my case, the packaging makes the ideal means of transporting locomotives between home and the club layout.  Of all the members at the club, I probably win the (booby) prize for the longest commute, 5 hours on Amtrak, one way.  Transporting the locomotives by sitting them loosely in a cardboard box isn’t going to end well.  To survive the trip, using the original packaging is the ticket.
 
Clamshell Jigsaw Puzzle
The one drawback of putting the locomotive back in the original clamshell, is it can be an exercise in frustration.  The barrier sheets are slippery, and seem to want to slide out of place; requiring readjustment.  Other than their slight haze appearance, they are completely transparent.  This makes it hard to see where they are and what they are doing.  Once the battle with the barrier sheets is done, now the clamshell needs to be slipped inside the rectangular clear plastic sleeve.  The bottom piece of Styrofoam wants to fall out.  Squeezing from the center causes the upper and lower Styrofoam pieces to bow-up at the ends, causing them to catch of the sleeve as it is slipped-on.  The clamshell is put on-end, so I can reposition my hand to compress the upper ends of the Styrofoam pieces so they will clear the sleeve.  Then after I’m “done”, I see one of the components (like the brackets that are suppoesd to be mounted under the trucks) is still on the workbench, and I need to start the whole process over again.  There has got to be a better way!  :-O
 
Running and Gunning
The first time I used a hot glue gun to attach a bow to a Christmas present, I was hooked.  The glue cools quickly and has lots of holding power.  However, it starts to cool as soon as it is applied.  All of the components to be glued need to be ready to go.  It is best used for parts that are put in-place and require minimal adjustment.  Thin applications of glue will harden faster than thick ones.  This was used to secure the Styrofoam blocks to the upper and lower clamshell voids.
 
If you don’t have a hot glue gun, then silicone caulk can be used instead.  Just be aware that until the caulk sets, it will allow the Styrofoam to move.  Position it to prevent the blocks from creeping (due to gravity) and extending beyond the lip of the clamshell.
 



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/01/25 11:22 by tmotor.

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Extended Play
The amount of working time allowed by the glue gun is mere seconds.  By the time I fine-tuned the placement of the barrier sheets, the glue had mostly hardened.  The barrier sheet material did not have a chance to bond well, so the attachment was weak.  Consequently, the barrier sheets routinely came off during unboxing or re-boxing.  The solution is to use clear silicone caulk instead.  It allows for about 10-15 minutes of working time.  The down-side it is takes hours to fully set.  (I gave it over-night, since I was not in a hurry.) 
 
The remaining components required more time for fine-tuning during attachment, so they were attached with silicone caulk.
 
Truck Master
When the locomotive is placed in the clamshell, the trucks slide onto black plastic brackets, one under each truck.  From what I can tell they are interchangeable, so there isn’t a Front and Rear bracket.  However, there is a heavier clip on one end of the bracket.  The brackets are oriented so this heavier clip faces the fuel tank.  When removing a locomotive, sometimes the brackets would remain attached to the locomotive.  (They are black and hard to see underneath the trucks.)  Until the brackets are removed, attempting to rail the locomotive would be futile.  Just one more reason to secure these brackets to the clamshell.
 
 



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/01/25 12:14 by tmotor.

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Get A Grip
There are 2 barrier sheets.  One is under the fuel tank, and the other drapes over the top of the entire engine.  When removing the locomotive, I grip above the fuel tank.  (Do NOT grab the dynamic brake blister!  It is designed to be removeable, and can detach as the engine is being lifted.)  The ends of the barrier sheet tend to be gripped by my fingers to lift the engine.  If my fingers grip both sides of the barrier sheet, it can act like a sling as the engine is lifted.  The issue is sometimes my fingers only grip one side of the barrier sheet.  The barrier sheet is “slick” and though my fingers are grasping the barrier sheet, there isn’t a lot of friction holding the barrier sheet against the fuel tank.  The risk of a fall makes me grip the engine harder, which may impact the handrails (which are quite fragile).  I’m pretty sure that is a major reason for those thin gray pieces of foam that are placed on the walkways.  If my fingers compress the handrails, they stand a better chance of survival with the foam backer.  With the barrier sheet attached to the clamshell, I have adopted the habit of placing my free hand under the fuel tank (after the engine is lifted away from the clamshell).  The engines are HEAVY.  Even a fall of a few inches can cause damage.  This 2-handed method is cheap insurance to prevent a frowny-face. 
 
The large barrier sheet is the most problematic.  It needs to be aligned front to back (so both the long hood and short hood are covered), as well as side to side.  Though it doesn’t have to be “perfect”, where ever the engine and clamshell make contact, the barrier sheet needs to be in-between.   As soon as the clamshell starts to make contact with one end of the barrier sheet, the other end invariably wants to move out of alignment.  It takes a bit of practice to manage both ends of the barrier sheet simultaneously, while closing the clamshell.  For me, this was a most perplexing exercise, requiring multiple attempts to get it right.  Being able to tame this step is one of the main benefits of this whole project. 
 
Because the long barrier sheet likes to move around, I concentrated on one end at a time.  I started with the end for the long hood first.  A half-sheet of Kleenex was used to create some space between the model’s surface and the barrier sheet (to reduce the chance of rubbing).  The Kleenex also served to protect the model in the event any caulking oozes beyond the edge of the barrier sheet when compressed.  After a few hours, this end will have cured, and then the other end by the nose can be attached.  Open the clamshell and transfer the Kleenex to cover the nose and cab.  With one end of the long barrier sheet attached, when the top of the clamshell is open, the barrier sheet hangs-down.  This makes it easier to align, since I can now concentrate on the nose-end. 
 
Pro Tip:
When inserting the clamshell back into the sleeve, insert the end with the locking tab first.  This way the lip of the locking tab won’t catch on the leading edge of the sleeve.  It will also push-up a bit on the sleeve so it has a better chance of clearing the leading edge of the Styrofoam block.
 



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 08/01/25 12:16 by tmotor.

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Modifying the clamshell to be a “Close-n-Play” operation is well worth the effort.  With a little practice, the total time it takes to attach everything is about equal to unboxing and reboxing the engine just a single time.  Of course, afterwards, the payback is the unboxing and re-boxing takes mere seconds.  :-D
 
Dave
 

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In my experience it is much easier to use double-sided tape to secure
the styrofoam blocks and the plastic sheets. It is easier to work with and easier to make adjustments if you need to. 

SkokieSwift



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/01/25 13:26 by skokieswift.

Good ideas here. I have used the double sided tape but it eventually releases. Nice thought on affixing the slip sheets. You're right about that being frustrating.

I think Rapido started labling their clamshells for locomotive orientation, but the the large marker call out is certainly easier to find.

Thanks for your post.

A very helpful thread - thanks.

We have really come a long way by way of sophistication in the hobby when we require (appreciated) assistance merely with the packaging, eh?

In this regard, I want to give a shout out to Dennis, owner of the Train Shop in San Jose, who yesterday went to some effort in placing discreet Sharpie guidance marks on the packaging to ensure that I would not klutz up re-boxing my (gorgeous) new Rapido MKT PA. You can't get that sort of service online.

EO
Wx4.org

I use a sharpie to locate the direction of placement in the cradle, with a large arrow
pointing the right direction.  I too use double sided tape for styrofoam, but then my
lokies travel about 6 feet from storage to layout.  I weather all my power so the 
clear sheets of protection are not bothered with once unpacked.



 

Excellent Topic covered in great detail. Book marking this for further revirew. THANK YOU

King_Coal Wrote:
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> Good ideas here. I have used the double sided tape
> but it eventually releases. 

Some of the newer brands of double sided tape like Gorilla Tape seem to hold on for much longer times.

Throw away those white styrofoam sheets. They just shed foam beads that static cling to your models. I throw them away first thing as they are not needed for the integrity of the packaging if some care is used in handling the model box (ie, not using it for a football).

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

Greetings SkokieSwift! 

> In my experience it is much easier to use
> double-sided tape to secure
> the styrofoam blocks and the plastic sheets. It is
> easier to work with and easier to make adjustments
> if you need to. 
it is more convenient.  I have had success using it to secure Post-It Notes to to boxes for labels.

Take care and God bless!
Dave

Greetings King_Coal!

> Good ideas here. I have used the double sided tape
> but it eventually releases.
I've had good luck when used for labels, but when used for something that gets moved or handled, it does weaken over time.

> Nice thought on
> affixing the slip sheets. You're right about that
> being frustrating.
It definitely reduces my "Customer Experience".  :-(

> I think Rapido started labling their clamshells
> for locomotive orientation, but the the large
> marker call out is certainly easier to find.
That is helpful.  Good job Rapido!  :-D

> Thanks for your post.
You are VERY welcome.  :-)

Take care and God bless!
Dave

Greetings EO!

> A very helpful thread - thanks.
Glad you found it useful.  :-D

> We have really come a long way by way of
> sophistication in the hobby when we require
> (appreciated) assistance merely with the
> packaging, eh?
We've come a long way from the days of Athearn blue box SD45s that were secured in the box with just 2 wire ties.  :-O

> In this regard, I want to give a shout out to
> Dennis, owner of the Train Shop in San Jose, who
> yesterday went to some effort in placing discreet
> Sharpie guidance marks on the packaging to ensure
> that I would not klutz up re-boxing my (gorgeous)
> new Rapido MKT PA. You can't get that sort of
> service online.
That kind of service makes Dennis a keeper!

Take care and God bless!
Dave
 

Greetings WrongWayMurphy!

> I use a sharpie to locate the direction of
> placement in the cradle, with a large arrow
> pointing the right direction.  
If I find the "F" (I put on the clamshell) does not catch my eye, I will do the same.

> I too use double
> sided tape for styrofoam, but then my
> lokies travel about 6 feet from storage to
> layout.  
That is a comfortable distance.

> I weather all my power so the 
> clear sheets of protection are not bothered with
> once unpacked.
What do you use to seal the weathering job?
I was afraid the weathering would be affected by direct contact with the clamshell, so I kept the barrier sheets.  However, if they don't make a difference, then it would be easier to not deal with them.

Take care and God bless!
Dave  

Greetings gandydancer4!

> Excellent Topic covered in great detail.
Thank you for the positive feedback.  :-D

> Book
> marking this for further revirew. THANK YOU
You are VERY welcome.  
I figured I wasn't the only one that had this issue, so I felt it was worth posting.

Take care and God bless!
Dave

Greetings PHall!

> Some of the newer brands of double sided tape like
> Gorilla Tape seem to hold on for much longer
> times.
They do make some good products.
The knock-off tapes don't hang-in there as long.

Take care and God bless!
Dave

Greetings Ted!

> Throw away those white styrofoam sheets. They just
> shed foam beads that static cling to your models.
> I throw them away first thing as they are not
> needed for the integrity of the packaging if some
> care is used in handling the model box (ie, not
> using it for a football).
Come to think of it, you are RIGHT!  :-O
Once it is inside the rectangular sleeve, and then placed inside the box, there is no chance the clamshell will ever be compressed.  (Unless it is run over by a train....)
The styrofoam blocks don't really serve much of a purpose.  That will remove a few steps from the process.
Thanks for the suggestion.  :-D

Take care and God bless!
Dave