Model Railroading > Lets see your weathered equipment

Photo one, Ashley Drew and Northern boxcar. Im old enough to remember when these were in every train.

Photo two, Accurail 3 bay Tampa Northern ACF covered hopper in phosphate service out of Bone Valley

Photo three, Tampa Northern Accurail 3 bay covered hopper on grain service.

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Photo 1. Accurail 41ft gondola lettered for Western Railway of Alabama

Photo 2. Scratchbashed Seaboard Air Line wetrock phosphate car is the car of interest here. One of the first cars I ever weathered, 35 plus years ago.

Naptown & White River custom decorated Accurail car. Car is in service to Hoffa Cement on THE Tampa Northern.

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Top photo, Hoffa Cement car that has seen a bit of weathering


2nd photo, 2 Big Boat GEs that have had basic weathering applied before they get back on their chassis.

3rd photo. Engelhard covered hopper that has been started. This is a work in progress. What has been done was done with Tamiya panel liners.

So, let's see your weathering projects.

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Some D&H cabooses kits I recently built. No airbrushing. D&H 35864 I used Tamiya panel liner, colored pencils and pan pastels. Sealed with Tamiya clear flat. A less weathered caboose - D&H 35945 just pan pastels and Tamiya clear flat.

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Great looking cabooses.  Who made the kits?

3D Central - https://3dcentraltrains.com/  They have 4 different versions, 2 end cupola, 2 middle cupola in both wood and plywood. 

Usually I go by the "less is more" methods. The first photo shows a boxcar from another current thread that has had some light dry pigment work.

But I can go all the way, as in the second and third photos. They are of a Tangent hopper kit matched to photographs of a beat-to-heck hopper. This model has airbrush, paintbrush, dry pigments, washes, layered decals, and watercolor pencil chipping.

 



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/09/26 07:15 by Lighter.

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some masterful work here... great thread idea.

Some fine work there! 
I'll add a few.
1. Scale Trains SD45.
2. Wheel load from Classonemodelworks wheels. Weathered the car and hit the wheels to give them that new steel orange "rust" look.
3. Weathered Lonestar semi trailer with a load of new wheels.

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FP9A 6536 transferred from CN to VIA in 1978. Here it is in 1980, still in CN colours. VIA just painted over the CN nose logo with fresh red paint.

This will eventually be painted into full VIA colours, when the budget allows!

-Jason
 

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How did you do the ragged top ?
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> Usually I go by the "less is more" methods. The
> first photo shows a boxcar from another current
> thread that has had some light dry pigment work.
>
> But I can go all the way, as in the second and
> third photos. They are of a Tangent hopper kit
> matched to photographs of a beat-to-heck hopper.
> This model has airbrush, paintbrush, dry pigments,
> washes, layered decals, and watercolor pencil
> chipping.
>
>  

Posted from iPhone

How did you do the ragged top ?
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I worked from photographs of deteriorating hopper roofs. Believe it or not, I held back.

I kept the car, roof walks, and hatches separated and finished them completely before doing the assembly. All were airbrushed with Badger Stynylrez white primer. The hatches are fiberglass, so dirty, but not rusty. I sparsely added Vallejo's dark gray wash. The rusty hardware on the hatches was brushed.

The car and roof-walk were treated the same. Using a couple of shades of rust, I used a natural sponge to cover the entire roof and walks, keeping it blotchy. Then I airbrushed a coat of AK Interactive “Worn Effects Acrylic Fluid.” The model was then airbrushed with more white primer. The effects fluid is a chipping medium, of which there are lots of brands available where military finishes are sold. When the white had set, I used a brush and water to scrub the white paint off areas where I wanted to show rust. I used a damp sponge over all to get the speckles of chipping paint. I went over the roof with a brush and the same rust paints I had been using to do some blending and smoothing of the rust.

The final work on the roof was with rusty pure pigments to give a bit of haze and also the large "bruise" in the center of the car. I also used pigments on the roof walk. After the parts were assembled, I went along the eaves with AK Interactive chipping pencils. These are watercolor pencils, so I did a bit of damp pencil work occasionally for variety. Looking at the time stamps on my progress photos, I spent about four hours on this roof. 



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/12/26 15:17 by Lighter.

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Scale?    I'm guessing HO.

-LD