Model Railroading > Blue Point Turnout Controllers

Does anyone know what, if anything is going on with Blue Point Manual Turnout Controllers?  I've had my eye on these for years and now that I'm in a position to build a small HO scale switching layout, and wanting to use the Blue Point Controllers, I'm seeing conflicting information as to their availability.  Walthers shows out of stock and Micro-Mark who used to carry them has no listing of them in their catalog.  I thought I read somewhere on line where the Blue Point Controllers had been discontinued. 

If Blue Point is no longer available, an option is Fast Tracks Bullfrog controller but that one needs to be built and have the SPDT switches installed.  Blue Points came assembled and included two SPDT switches installed. 

Any information anyone can share would be much appreciated.  Thank you.

Patrick G.

> Any information anyone can share would be much
> appreciated.  Thank you.

They are made by Proto Power West. Arrow Hobbies is the online shop.
https://ppw-aline.com/
Scroll down to the bottom and you will see the Blue Point link.
 



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/16/26 14:48 by Lighter.

With the abundance of finger flick turnouts out now, (ME, Peco, Walthers) I'm wondering what the demand is for Blue Point machines. Blue Point gives the convenience in certain areas but nothing beats the simplicity of finger flick points particularly on a smaller switching pike. The trade off with a BluePoint over say a Tortoise is minimal due too the mechanical rigging needed for the BluePoint which can be a pain depending on the benchwork and take up significant space compared to running wire. Hope you can find what you need. 



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/16/26 17:56 by ChrisCampi.

At the two places where I changed to "finger flick" turnouts I had to put a little sign on the facia to remind myself and visitors what to do.
In both cases I put in a working switch stand linked to the throw rod so the switch target gives a signal whether the switch is normal or reversed.
As older spur track switches give me trouble I replace them with finger flickes.  
Main line switches are staying with Tortiose because so many signal indications pass through the contacts on them.

It would be cool if you show us how you did that. Did you put the spring wire btw the points and then install a caboose industries switch stand?

Victor Biard

railstiesballast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> At the two places where I changed to "finger
> flick" turnouts I had to put a little sign on the
> facia to remind myself and visitors what to do.
> In both cases I put in a working switch stand
> linked to the throw rod so the switch target gives
> a signal whether the switch is normal or
> reversed.
>



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/16/26 17:41 by wabash2800.

I have used Blue Points for years on my N scale/DC layout.  Linked to an angled LED red/green dwarf signal its been perfect for just out of reach turnouts. I am sure there are other updated methods but I have no reason to change.
RB

wabash2800 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> It would be cool if you show us how you did that.
> Did you put the spring wire btw the points and
> then install a caboose industries switch stand?
>
> Victor Biard
>
> railstiesballast Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > At the two places where I changed to "finger
> > flick" turnouts I had to put a little sign on
> the
> > facia to remind myself and visitors what to do.
> > In both cases I put in a working switch stand
> > linked to the throw rod so the switch target
> gives
> > a signal whether the switch is normal or
> > reversed.
> >

I spent considerable time recently looking for those same operating switch stands with out luck. I do remember RTB mentioning them before but I couldn't find them. 

If your Blue Points are in and working I wouldn't replace them. I replaced mine only because I changed the older number six's which were failing to new number eights and didn't need them any longer. 

I used Utah Pacific switch stands which have a metal stand and mast rod with a crank soldered on.  I run a small rod (0.024" +/-) from the hole in the crank over to the stub end of the throw bar where I put it in a hole that I drilled in the throw bar.  To finish up I glue the stand to the long headblock tie (usually after cutting clearance for the mast and crank) and check the operation, followed up by lining the switch normal and gluing a target on the mast lined up parallel to the main line.  Then when I throw the points over the rod turns the mast and the target is now (more or less) crosswise to the main line.  I am currently several miles away from the layout or I would attempt some photos.

Thanks. I beleive some of us would be interested in your photos when you get around to it.

Victor Baird

railstiesballast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I used Utah Pacific switch stands which have a
> metal stand and mast rod with a crank soldered
> on.  I run a small rod (0.024" +/-) from the hole
> in the crank over to the stub end of the throw bar
> where I put it in a hole that I drilled in the
> throw bar.  To finish up I glue the stand to the
> long headblock tie (usually after cutting
> clearance for the mast and crank) and check the
> operation, followed up by lining the switch normal
> and gluing a target on the mast lined up parallel
> to the main line.  Then when I throw the points
> over the rod turns the mast and the target is now
> (more or less) crosswise to the main line.  I am
> currently several miles away from the layout or I
> would attempt some photos.

As far as I know, PPW/Aline (makers of the Blue Point) are now direct only sales.  

The Blue Point, as far as I am concerned, is the best manual switch machine ever made.