Model Railroading > Working with Magic Water for scenery ...

A while back there was another discussion here about the various water-simulation hobby materials available today. This post concerns the Magic Water product (http://www.unrealdetails.com/ ) which we use and enjoy. There is one aspect to this material, and likely others, that it may help for a user to be aware of when using Magic Water.

Due to its slow setting time, it tends to soak into surrounding scenery and “wick” into areas where you probably wouldn’t want it. We were aware of this product characteristic and wanted to see how it might affect adjacent scenery so we made the small sample piece shown here. We don’t consider this “wicking” tendency a flaw, just something we need to be aware of when building any water-related scenery.

Photo 1) This small piece of sample water testing scenery measures about 7 inches wide by 4 inches front to back. The middle of the pond was carved down about 1/4-inch deep. The rocks are scraps of plaster castings, and the polystyrene surface was first painted with beige-colored acrylic paint on the “ground” plus greys and blacks were added to the rocks per usual scenery practice. Darker colors were added to the deep part of the pond. Scenic texture material was sprinkled over diluted white glue brushed on the surface and some greenery was also added in the water areas as pond weeds.

Jeff Johnston
www.trainvideosandparts.com
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We used a single pour of Magic Water to fill the pond and let it cure.

Photo 2) The resin surface dries perfectly smooth so we used Woodland Scenics Water Effects – it goes on white, dries clear -- to add two small textured areas to the pond. This view, angled so the light reflects on the surface, shows the two textured areas – slightly rougher at right, smoother at left. Dabbling and stroking the applicator brush allows you to achieve a wide variety of surface texture.

Photo 3) This view shows the transparent water area along with the ripple-effect areas. The smoother area at left allows you to see, in an appropriately blurry fashion, the weeds and details below the surface. We didn’t tint the water, but you can experiment with a non-water-based paint to tint the resin to match the desired prototype effect; perhaps make a shallow first pour darker and the upper layer lighter to simulate depth.

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Photo 4) Area “A” shows how the ground foam became saturated with the Magic Water as it soaked through the material. Area “B” likewise is some dirt texture material that also became saturated. Area “C” is the same dirt as “B” but it’s a bit higher in elevation so the wicking didn’t creep up as far. It’s hard to see at “D” but the Magic Water started seeping down the front of the polystyrene base before it cured. The manufacturer recommends not using a Styrofoam cup for mixing Magic Water because the resin can corrode the Styrofoam, and that’s another good reason to protect your model base with paint if you use Polystyrene as a scenery material.

Photo 5) This more-or-less water level view shows how the resin crept up into the rocks. The water level is roughly at the bottom of the “A in the image. Note how the water has crept up into the cracks in the rocks as indicated by the arrows at “B”.

Photo 6) At the left end of the model we planted some reeds in punched holes before pouring the resin, and it’s tough to see but some of the resin wicked up between some of the weed stems before curing. The rocky/soil texture material was added over a new coat of our brown base paint after the resin cured. Adding the texture later avoided the saturated effect seen in photo # 4. Likewise, the lily pads were “glued” down over a thin layer of the Woodland Scenics Water Effects.

There are no grand conclusions here other than being aware of how the resin water will travel before it cures. My suggestion is to paint the entire area to color and protect the foam or plaster base first, then add any texture material and details that will be under your poured water and up to where you estimate the water’s edge will be. After the water cures you’ll still have some resin creep, but it’s easy to paint down to the water’s edge and add your texture material as appropriate on the dry land areas. You can do some touch-up painting where the resin creeps up into any rocks that are at the waters’ edge.

Good luck!

Jeff Johnston
www.trainvideosandparts.com

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I was going to use this, but I think I will
stick with Envirotex for my water.
cf7

cf7 Wrote:
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> I was going to use this, but I think I will
> stick with Envirotex for my water.
> cf7


I have used both with good results. MW takes longer to setup that is about the only difference I can see. As to the creep, water always creeps up the bank to some degree or another. I look at a river near me and I see a "water line" up the side of the river and sand bars are wet although not covered with water.

Have you tried spraying mold release along the shoreline to help control wicking? Silicone based spray should kill the capilarity that's driving the wicking effect, and the cans come with a long straw so you can control where the spray goes.

It's worked like a charm for me when I want a nice clean water level against rocks, etc. Along a weedy shoreline or the edge of a wetland I think wicking actually helps.

You can also try adding a little more of the ground foam or soil when the resin is about half-set. It tends not to sink too far and can leave you with a neat effect where the stones closest to the surface are dry, but you can see wet spots in between.

Very timely, I was planning on a large Oregon mud puddle. Interesting effect on on the water, not quite the white caps of a cold wind though.

TCnR: For whitecaps, you shape the surface texture larger, then add a drybrush of white to the wave tips. It can look great!

Jeff Johnston
www.trainvideosandparts.com