Model Railroading > Micro Engineering Flex Track

Who among you uses this track?

Can you get it perfectly straight?

And if so, what method do you use?

I also have a section of ME bridge flex track that is ready to install on a brass truss bridge and want to make sure it is perfectly straight before I glue it down with Barge cement.

Victor,I started with ME code 83 flex. I changed to Atlas when it came out. ME was hard to get a smooth curve it is stiff. I don't believe you can tell where it changes.
Dan*

santafedan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Victor,I started with ME code 83 flex. I changed
> to Atlas when it came out. ME was hard to get a
> smooth curve it is stiff. I don't believe you can
> tell where it changes.
> Dan*


Yeah, but you'll find a lot of guys that swear by it including some top modelers.

First, you cannot get it perfectly straight, nor can you get any flex track "Perfectly straight".
I have used about everything since I started in HO in 1958, and I ended up building my current layout pretty much with ME. I don't use the weathered rail, as it is a lot harder to get straight than the raw nickle silver. I use some long flat pieces of metal, draw lines on the homabed (that is what I use for roadbed) and then fasten the track down, working out any kinks.

I use code 100 (when I started building my current railroad in 1988, code 83 was a dream), I also use some code 83 now and code 70.

I also handlaid about 15 percent of the mainline while working on my MMR for the NMRA, handlaid track was one of the certificates. I drew lines, laid the wood ties using jigs, spiked the rail down using 3 point track gauges, and ballasted it. Sadly, it is hard to spot amongst the ME flex. The switches I handlaid do stand out.

However, having grown up in a Santa Fe family, having worked for Santa Fe summers during college, and having worked for Santa Fe after college for 11 years, I don't recall seeing very much "perfectly" straight track. Weather, ground shifting, etc. soon cause little imperfections.

Bob

Bob:

Thanks for you input but I might disagree with your statement reference the inability to get flex track pefectly straight. I have layed Atlas code 100 flex track that was perfect. I know that some folks don't like this stuff but its very durable and flexible with holes in the ties for spikes. If I take my time, I can iron it out(pun intended) and get perfectly straight track. And I also solder sections together before laying. And it is great stuff to layout on a helix.

> Who among you uses this track?
> Can you get it perfectly straight?

If you're referring to the weathered code 83 variety, it's "perfectly straight" when you buy it, however once you flex it - at all - it then becomes extremely difficult to return to a straight configuration. It's also really tough to flex into smooth-looking, "flowing" curves as the ties don't easily slide along the rails. It can be done, it just takes a lot of time/effort vs. flex track made by other manufacturers (Atlas, etc).

Before starting my layout I purchased 5 sections of ME and 5 of the Atlas code 83 flex and compared them before making the "big" purchase. After working with both of them on test sections I quickly decided to go with the Atlas. Some of the ME flex track ended up on an industry spur with the rest being cut into sections and used as "panel rail" loads for some gondolas I have - none made it onto my mainline...

Take care,

Mark

It is possible to get Micro Engineering track as straight or uniform as any other brand of flex track, it just takes a different technique. Rather than trying to bend it to a line and hold it there, you need to gradually work it from one end to the other, repeating as necessary, until you get the alignment you want. A straightedge or curved gauge is helpful to spot deviations from your planned alignment.

wabash2800 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Bob:
>
> Thanks for you input but I might disagree with
> your statement reference the inability to get flex
> track pefectly straight. I have layed Atlas code
> 100 flex track that was perfect. I know that some
> folks don't like this stuff but its very durable
> and flexible with holes in the ties for spikes. If
> I take my time, I can iron it out(pun intended)
> and get perfectly straight track. And I also
> solder sections together before laying. And it is
> great stuff to layout on a helix.

Hey, no problem with disagreeing, after all I disagreed with you first. Anyway, I got all the main line and passing tracks laid over the years pretty darn straight, and industrial tracks, well, I don't try as hard with them. I learned to hate Atlas back in the code 100 days, and that "flex track" they marketed. So never went back to them for track. As I said, good part of my railroad was laid before 1992, and code 83 was not much of an option then. I redid a section in 2001 and used 83 and like it, but I am not about to tear out three decks/one helix full of ME code 100 just because code 83 looks a little better.

Happy rails

Bob

it also makes it easier to make nice curves if you remove the plastic tie connectors underneath the rail on the inside rail of the curve. I did mine with a utility knife. The ties can be repositioned as you lay the curve. This also makes the weathered version easier to curve.

twl

cjohnson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> It is possible to get Micro Engineering track as
> straight or uniform as any other brand of flex
> track, it just takes a different technique.
> Rather than trying to bend it to a line and hold
> it there, you need to gradually work it from one
> end to the other, repeating as necessary, until
> you get the alignment you want. A straightedge or
> curved gauge is helpful to spot deviations from
> your planned alignment.

Like others, I tried their flex track. The issues I had were:

1. Hard to source. It was always out of stock. When your building a layout, you need track!

2. Much more expensive then Atlas.

3. You had to spend a huge amount of time making it look right, especially in curves. Time I did not want to waste. (I airbrush and ballast my track anyways)

4. Lastly, I was using their switches and they were failing at a highly alarming rate and I just grew tired of poor ME quality. Their track does look great but that is only half the story.

Good luck.

Bruce

My whole layout is done with code 83 M.E.

Yes, it takes time but doing it right you have great track

For turnouts I used Shinohara (Walthers)...........

A firm flat solid roadbed is the start!

Bruce and wheel:

I have heard the bad reputation for their switches so wasn't planning to use those. Besides they only offer up to a NO. 6 and my minimum on the mainline is No. 8. I am going to try the CV switches with Details West Mag frogs.

I've always used ME track and Shinohara/Walthers turnouts. For some hidden trackage I have some Atlas code 83 and some Kato track and switches. As far as getting it straight, I just eyeball it, never had a problem with curves just bend it a bit at a time.

wabash2800 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Who among you uses this track?
>
> Can you get it perfectly straight?
>
> And if so, what method do you use?
>
> I also have a section of ME bridge flex track that
> is ready to install on a brass truss bridge and
> want to make sure it is perfectly straight before
> I glue it down with Barge cement.

What were the problems that you had with ME turnouts? I have been thinking about ordering some code 70 ones but now I am not sure. - Nevin

NevinW Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> What were the problems that you had with ME
> turnouts? I have been thinking about ordering
> some code 70 ones but now I am not sure. - Nevin


Nevin: I've never tried them but maybe someone here can tell you better. I do recall reading a review on them in one of the major magazine, I believe RMC and the reviewer bashed them. If I recall correctly, they are not very durable with eletrical short problems.

Power routing capability fails rendering the frog area dead and engines stall on it. Happened on over 60% of my switches. All in the trash and ME did nothing.

Bruce


wabash2800 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> NevinW Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > What were the problems that you had with ME
> > turnouts? I have been thinking about ordering
> > some code 70 ones but now I am not sure. -
> Nevin
>
>
> Nevin: I've never tried them but maybe someone
> here can tell you better. I do recall reading a
> review on them in one of the major magazine, I
> believe RMC and the reviewer bashed them. If I
> recall correctly, they are not very durable with
> eletrical short problems.