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Hello,
I’ve been a long time informational leech but this is my first (or maybe second) post.

I was hoping someone could help me. I’ve got a few of the SP bulkhead flats from Bruce’s Trains made by a guy in Nevada. The paint on them is a bit thick so I’d prefer to repaint and redecal the cars after a bit of detailing. Has anyone had any experience with these cars? I was thinking 99% isopropyl alcohol or Chameleon stripper but I don’t want to damage the resin. Any help would be appreciated.

Since this is my first real post I thought I'd leave a quick note about me, I’m a prototype modeler, SP, ATSF, UP. Era: 1975-1995. Southern California area (I grew up on the Burbank Branch). Currently on my workbench you’d find a SP SD39 & U33C, an OMI ATSF MK1200G, and a bunch of other misc freight car projects.

Thank you all,
Peter
Portland, OR



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/29/09 21:29 by spsd45x.

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Nice stuff Peter. For the Bruce's Train Shop Bulkhead flat, I'd suggest maybe media-blasting that model. I did that to an undec version of his model without any ill effects. Now.. let's see more of that SD39!

Best Regards,
Harry

I second the grit blast option. I stripped one of the Thrall bulkhead cars they did in TT yellow, and it worked fine. Like your SP car, the "factory" paint was not so good....

-Rick

Rick Selby
Redmond, WA
Pacific Northwest RPM

Hey Harry & Rick,
Thanx for the quick replies. It just so happens that I purchased a mini-blaster from Harbor Freight a few months back, haven’t even unpacked it yet, nor have I ever used one. I guess it’s time to learn. I'll do some searching on TO, maybe someone has posted some How To's.

As for the SD39, photos will come soon. I want to have it done for the Salem, OR RPM show next month. It’s modeled after SP’s second order. I haven’t seen 5324 used on a model yet, so SP 5324 it shall be.

Rick, I’d love to see photos of the Trailer Train car, I wanted to purchase one but each time I find myself at Bruce’s all they have is the display model. I’m hoping the guy will rerun those at some point.

Thanx again,
Peter

spsd45x Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
...It just so happens
> that I purchased a mini-blaster from Harbor
> Freight a few months back, ...
>


We've had some interesting discussions about grit blasting with very good info on the 'preferred' medium to do the blasting with. I don't have that link, it would be an interesting thread to have for reference.

TCnR Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> spsd45x Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> ...It just so happens
> > that I purchased a mini-blaster from Harbor
> > Freight a few months back, ...
> >
>
>
> We've had some interesting discussions about grit
> blasting with very good info on the 'preferred'
> medium to do the blasting with. I don't have that
> link, it would be an interesting thread to have
> for reference.

I agree... You can trash a model in a hurry if you use the wrong blasting medium and don't pay strict attention to the paint as it comes off.

I can tell you what I've used with good success - Paasche "Air Eraser" tool, along with their fine grit blast medium.

http://www.paascheairbrush.com/2008pdf/AEC%20Air%20Eraser%20Parts%20List.pdf

For me, this too works well, and varying the air pressure adjusts the aggressiveness wiht which the tool works. I've also successfully used this tool to remove factory lettering without damaging the paint underneath. You can also use it to fade lettering and heralds as part of your weathering process.

I personally would be careful using any of the larger grit blasting tools from places like Harbor Freight. Most are designed for removing paint and rust from metal, etc... and may be too aggressive for plastic or resin models. As always, your mileage may vary....

-Rick

Rick Selby
Redmond, WA
Pacific Northwest RPM

Hello Rick,
The unit you referenced is nearly identical to the one I purchased from Harbor Freight which included a bottle of fine grit and I think I have a few other brand bottles laying around.

May I ask a few questions though:

You mention varying the air pressure, what pressure range would you recommend, 25-50 psi(ish)?

What about things like stirrups, would you recommend removing them prior to blasting and just replacing them with new unpainted parts? Or is that just not a concern?

What do you blast in? Spray booth or a box with a plastic trash bag?

Can you reuse the grit?

Thank you again for helping, I searched TO for the other post that was mentioned but I wasn't able to find it.

Peter

spsd45x Wrote:

> You mention varying the air pressure, what
> pressure range would you recommend, 25-50
> psi(ish)?

Yes - I use anywhere from 20 to 50 PSI. This, coupled with multiple passes, usually does the trick. Some paint types are more stubborn than others.

> What about things like stirrups, would you
> recommend removing them prior to blasting and just
> replacing them with new unpainted parts? Or is
> that just not a concern?

Never been a concern on the stuff I've stripped. I've never been too concerned about getting all the old paint off stirrups and other misc. details. I've always been more focused on the main carbody, and in particular the lettering.

> What do you blast in? Spray booth or a box with a
> plastic trash bag?

I have a grit blasting booth, but it's not set up yet. So, I've just connected a 50-foot hose and blasted the models in the driveway.

> Can you reuse the grit?

In theory, yes. But I don't. If you do attempt to reuse it, you'll want to clean the paint particles out to keep the medium as clean as possible. Frankly, it's more trouble than its worth, IMO. Besides, I've found the Paasche unit is pretty "efficient" in terms of how quickly it goes through the blast medium.

I know others use baking soda as a blasting medium, too. While it's more susceptible to moisture, you can't beat the price.....

> Thank you again for helping, I searched TO for the
> other post that was mentioned but I wasn't able to
> find it.

No problem. Good luck!

-Rick

Rick Selby
Redmond, WA
Pacific Northwest RPM

Thank you again Rick,
I really appreciate the help. I'll give it a try when I get home this evening, I'll let you know how it goes.

Peter

I built my blaster years ago with a gun from Graingers. The tub has a hose on the bottom and the air passing through the gun draws the sand in. It's a commercial job in a home built cabinet and the gun can be removed and taken outside for use. I use locomotive sand and it works pretty good. Yes, I recomend 25-50 psi and keep the gun moving. I've also used it to remove spilled ACC on occasion.

I highly recommend experimenting on scrap shells to get the hang of it. Maybe I can get the brains of the outfit to show me how to post pics of it tommorrow night.

Doug Wetherhold
Macungie, PA

Blastin' from the archives:
http://www.trainorders.com/discussion/read.php?3,1436960,1436960#msg-1436960
http://www.trainorders.com/discussion/read.php?3,1363414,1363551#msg-1363551
http://www.trainorders.com/discussion/read.php?3,844020,page=1

Some neat looking 'workspaces':
http://www.trainorders.com/discussion/read.php?3,1957308,1957359#msg-1957359

There was a fairly recent article in the SPH&TS about the bulkhead flatcars which explained the different designs of the SP bulkhead flatcars. The author emphasized the kit bash technique and mentioned these cars from Bruce's Trains. The article mentioned a warping problem which had been endemic in cast resin models but has since been corrected in most product lines and I've been told corrected in this line of cars.
I was surprised to hear that the folks who use the cast resin manufacturing technique actually share information including source materials and techniques, d'oh. I heard they have a Yahoo Discussion Group.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/01/09 12:13 by TCnR.

Thank you all for the feedback and advise. I don't think I did too bad for my first attempt, I mainly went after the areas with the thickest paint and most noticeable to the eye, plus the car will have a lumber load so I didn't go after the deck much. I ended up getting the best results at about 50-65psi using fine grit Badger Oxide Abrasive (I'll try baking soda next). I was a bit surprised as to how long it took to get the results I got, an hour or more but I guess its understandable with the thick paint. I also noticed it made a big difference as to how I positioned the gun relative to the model in order to get the paint to "peel" off as you blast.

My only big opps was a slight drop of the model in the driveway, I strongly suggest not doing this! I got lucky and nothing broke. Here is a photo of my first blasting attempt.

Thank you again,
Peter

Peter M
Murrieta, CA

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