Model Railroading > Foot switch with a Kadee Electro-Magnetic Ramp

I installed a Kadee Electro-Magnetic Uncoupling Ramp on the mainline of my small HOn3 layout to avoid accidental uncoupling. This has been a real learning experience. I finally got the ramp to work properly and decided to try a foot switch to turn the ramp on and off vs. a push button or timer. Music is a second hobby and I have several foot switches that I use with my gear. I connected the positive feed from the ramp to a quarter inch stereo jack and plugged in the foot switch. Using a foot switch allows for hands free operation and eliminates the possibility of leaving the ramp powered. Right now my plan is to install several of the powered uncoupler ramps and to use a rotary switch to select which ramp I want to use. Thus a single power source and a single foot switch. I plan on trying some different scenery/weathering methods to hide the ramp.

1. Uncoupling Ramp
2. 1/4" Stereo Plug
3. Foot Switch


I'll post some videos next

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Video showing uncoupler ramp in action. I need to level out the track to the left of the ramp. The tracks have not been put down permanently.

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Why didn't you use the newer kind that you can bury under the track?

Ingenious!
Clarence

Does Kadee make the under the table electro-magnetic coupler. If it works, it might look a lot better. I think I can can hide the ramp, but haven't given it a whole lot of thought.

Yes, they make a newer electromagnetic version that goes under the ties. I once tried to hide the older version under the ties, and it did not work. Even when I made the ties paper thin, it was a failure.

Thanks for the info - I'll do some research. Luckily I only used spikes to tack down the ramp.

Do you have a model number? Thanks

380-309. Listed under HO but can be used for HOn3 as does not come with track but is mounted under the ties and centered. Go to the Walthers website and you'll get a photo and description. I did what Andy Sperandeo does with a thin piece of plastic (rather than tin foil) under the ties to keep the ballast from falling through the hole in the subroadbed. I cut out my homabed or cork roadbed completely and then put pieces back in the sides. The hole in the subroadbed doesn't have to be as precise as the instructions let on. In fact, using Andy's method, it was easier. IIRC, I glued the assembly in rather than use the screws. I have few electromagnet uncouplers on the layout as most locations are within reach for the manual method from the aisles. I just use the electro ones where things are out of reach.

By the way, that is a creative idea with the foot switch.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/12 09:00 by wabash2800.

Thanks for the info. Don't have to worry about overheating with the foot switch. So far it has worked very well.