Model Railroading > Thoughts on the GP9E

Just picked up the Athearn GP9E, SP 3778 Phase II with the Air Filter Box and extra lights on the front end only. The unit also had Tsunami Sound. I was so happy Jim at Sunset Trains in Spokane had just the unit I was looking for, and he gave me a great deal on it. This is an excellent model and well worth the money. Now there aren't too many models I would be willing to fork over $200+ for, but being a SP Fan, a accurate model of a GP9E fits that bill. The few downside items to note are; The clamshell packaging is hard to undo, and even harder to redo. I've been a fan of the clamshell packaging for transporting the models around, but these particular clamshells are very hard to lock back in place. The little profiled tab is near impossible to snap back into place. I figure I will modify it make it easier to lock into place. I'm sure hobby shop owners everywhere are frustrated too trying to show off the model to customers.
I also found it odd the lights on the front have lenses, but the ones on the rear only have the bulbs sticking out. The lights seemed dim at any rate, and I will investigate replacing with LEDs. The sand lines hanging down next to the wheels seem hokey, and I'll probably look at replacing them with sand lines attached to the trucks. I think Athearn needs to do the same, similar to the speed recorder cable.
I haven't run mine enough yet to comment on the running and sound.

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

If the hoods and cab aren't fixed yet, "accurate model" wouldn't really apply here. For comparison, look at this photo navarch posted:
http://www.trainorders.com/discussion/attachments/fullsize/716000/pc7458_3.JPG

and a photo of a real GP9 from a similar perspective:
http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=416592

and notice the radius of the cab roof (too flat), radius of the top of the hood (too sharp), space between the top of the radiators and top of the hood (too small), relationship between the cab and hoods (cab is too high or hoods too low) and the patio door looking window.

If they are fixed, I'll have to get one or two but probably not in SP.

I know this has been discussed ad nauseum but if manufactures are going to claim to be making little replicas of the real thing they should at least get the basics like hood height correct. I guess if they hang enough eye candy on it maybe most folks won't notice, or care.

Its a darn shame its not a perfect world! Man...

PT

Here are some shots of these units Ted speaks of. They are very well done. It is a shame that Athearn continues to ignore their customer base for requests to move to LED's. I have not met one person who wants the bulbs except one person on this board. I bet that if Athearn did a poll, 95% would want them to move to LED's. Athearn management should override these folks and force the issue. Give the customers what they want. Enjoy the engine.

Bruce

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I am mixed about LEDs, but as much as I enjoy Athearn products I wish they would sell off their McHenry subsidiary. I spend about $200 for a nice, sound-equipped loco with fine details and the first thing I do when I get home is change the coupler to mtal Kadees.

I notice in the picture above, the ex-T&NO GP9E, 3759, has the standard EMD headlight but still has holes below it for the SP headlight location. Does that goof appear on the production models, or only the (presumably) pre-production version shown on the Athearn website?

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> I notice in the picture above, the ex-T&NO GP9E,
> 3759, has the standard EMD headlight but still has
> holes below it for the SP headlight location.
> Does that goof appear on the production models, or
> only the (presumably) pre-production version shown
> on the Athearn website?

That seems to be a photo of the "deco" sample. The production models of the 3759 in stores have just the single standard dual-sealed beam headlight on both ends for the SP 3759. No "extra" holes in the nose!

Cheers,
Harry

brfriedm Wrote:
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It is a shame that Athearn continues to ignore their customer base
> for requests to move to LED's. I have not met one
> person who wants the bulbs except one person on
> this board. I bet that if Athearn did a poll, 95%
> would want them to move to LED's.
> Bruce


I prefer bulbs! Nice to meet you Bruce.

sphauler Wrote:
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> brfriedm Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> It is a shame that Athearn continues to ignore
> their customer base
> > for requests to move to LED's. I have not met
> one
> > person who wants the bulbs except one person on
> > this board. I bet that if Athearn did a poll,
> 95%
> > would want them to move to LED's.
> > Bruce
>
>
> I prefer bulbs! Nice to meet you Bruce.

Nice to meet you Mr. SPHauler (no name signed)

So what part of the Athearn bulb experience do you like SPH?

The bulbs sticking out of the sockets like torpedo's in a submarine?
The 3 minutes they last until they burn out?
or is it the 1 hour or more of wasted time it takes to change them out once they burn out?

Please let us know.

Thanks. :)

Bruce

Bulbs please!... because LEDs look TYCO not prototypical. Good job Athearn. 'Beautiful model!

...and thanks for giving us the packaging we all asked for so that our models arrive whole and not busted-up.

Cheers! Mark

Granted, when most people think of LED's in models, they think of the stupid Green, Yellow or Blue tinted LED mistakes of Kato and Atlas. I found some awesome white LED's on Ebay a while back that are far superior to bulbs. I was once a bulb guy because of the issues above, but now that I found the correct white LED's, there is a better way.

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

I really don't have much issues with model when compared to the prototype photo. Any differences are really minor.

http://ncespee.railfan.net/spgp9er/sp3774.html

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

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funnelfan Wrote:
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> Granted, when most people think of LED's in
> models, they think of the stupid Green, Yellow or
> Blue tinted LED mistakes of Kato and Atlas. I
> found some awesome white LED's on Ebay a while
> back that are far superior to bulbs. I was once a
> bulb guy because of the issues above, but now that
> I found the correct white LED's, there is a better
> way.

In my humble opinion LED's suck toenails for special effects like Mars lights and rotary beacons. Plus you have to shield them so the light doesn't shine out of the bottom of the locomotive like cheap Tyco. Plus many times from the factory they are too damned bright, unless you are Intermountain SD40-2W or a Bowser U25B. Then they are dimmer than an unlit candle.

Jim

funnelfan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Granted, when most people think of LED's in
> models, they think of the stupid Green, Yellow or
> Blue tinted LED mistakes of Kato and Atlas. I
> found some awesome white LED's on Ebay a while
> back that are far superior to bulbs. I was once a
> bulb guy because of the issues above, but now that
> I found the correct white LED's, there is a better
>

That is the same reason I went to LEDS as they are close enough to incandescent bulb color and last forever. Also I have yet to see an Athearn unit where the bulbs are as bright as a real loco and ft the headlight housing. Usually the Athearn bulbs are dim and if you try to make them brighter so they look like a real headlight you end up blowing them.