Model Railroading > Repowering a NWSL 2-8-2 logger

I'm in the process of re-motoring a 70 logging 2-8-2 from NWSL/TOBY. The old open frame motor had a rubber coupling between the motor and floating gearbox. What would be a good replacement for the dried out rubber coupler?

The angle of the motor is adjustable and the gearbox on the axle floats all over the place. I'm assuming the motor is intended to keep the gearbox front flipping fore and aft when running in forward or reverse, so a driveline with u-joints may cause binding as the floating gearbox yaws back and forth with torque.

Any recommendations or thoughts?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/14 20:12 by Lurch.

NWSL makes some couplings and sliding connectors that might replace the setup.

https://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/techtips.php?techtip_id=7

The trick is to size connections appropriately and make sure the connection will work well with the travel involved.

I have been fighting with the same situation on three recent steam overhauls and have met with a lot of frustration. The main gearbox moves forward and backward which throws the universal out of alignment and binds things up. If you install a torque arm between the gearbox and motor you would solve that but it takes some effort.

The best solution I have found is to replace the flexible connector with a piece of fuel line from the R/C airplane hobby. Dubro is the brand and you want the smallest size they make. It is clear and a few feet costs $1.79.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/14 23:41 by fbe.

fbe beat me to it. Neoprene fuel line is the best thing I've found.

I had NWSL do a motor swap and gear upgrade on this exact same loco and they just used another piece of clear flexible tubing. I have yet to have any problems with it.

I have 2 of these in O scale and re-motored one of them. The biggest single improvement you can make is to add a torque arm connecting the motor mount to the top or side of the gearbox. You can use brass channel and screws to put it together but you will need to drill and tap the gearbox to accept at least 1 screw-2 preferred. I use the neoprene/silicone rubber that you make slingshots and spear-guns work!

Peter

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Thanks guys! I think I'll go with the neoprene tubing. I might consider a torque arm too.