Model Railroading > Working With Decals

Recently I answered a persons inquiry about tips for applying decals on another forum. Since I invested a fair bit of time in the response, I thought it would be best to give the response a wider audience in hopes that it can help many modelers.

I have years of experience applying decals, and there are some key things you must know to do it right. First apply a coat of gloss to the model, the testors spray cans work well, but don't over do it. The gloss coat smooths the surface and allows the decal to adhere to the surface cleanly. If the decal film spans a gap or gets air behind it, once it dries out it, it looks like scotch tape on the model. So it's important to get that film properly applied.
That brings me to Microscale decal chemicals Micro-Set and Micro-Sol, both are a must have. Micro-Set is a chemical to help apply the  decal to the model, and Micro-Sol is a solvent the softens the decal film so it can be worked in around details. I don't even use water any more, I soak the decals in Micro-Set and then also apply Micro-Set to the model before sliding the decal off the backing paper onto the model. Once the decal is in position, I "defloat" the decal by using a piece of paper towel to soak up the excess fluid from under the decal. Use a toothpick to position the decal, but be careful to not damage or rip the decal film. Once the decal is in on the model in positioned, apply Micro-Sol to areas with detail under the decal film. Once the decal film gets soft, you can poke it with a toothpick to work it in around details and work the air bubbles out from under the film. It's very important to get air bubbles out. I will even poke tiny holes into the film with a x-acto knife to get the air out. Once everything on one side of the model is set, just leave it alone resting with the side up until it dries. When the decal dries and you notice air behind the decal, apply more Micro-Sol and work the air out.

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

I still keep a bottle of Walthers Solvaset on hand for really tough situations, but I am very careful with it and sometimes dab my brush in the Solvaset followed by a bit of water. But the light gloss starting finish is key. I have a boxcar around here somewhere that I did 25+ years ago that has the Scotch Tape look of which you spoke.

Tom Y

Microscale's SP passenger car red stripes just come part no matter what you use to set them

the red stripes on the UP diesel sets also break right up. I had to use  30 year old
Mopac Herald King sets for red striping that I found on Ebay. They still worked fine.

twl  

WAF Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Microscale's SP passenger car red stripes just
> come part no matter what you use to set them

I never thought of using Micro Sol to soak the decal in instead of water.   Doesn't that soften it?

Frisco1522 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I never thought of using Micro Sol to soak the
> decal in instead of water.   Doesn't that soften
> it?

Maybe if it soaked for a couple hours, but I usually apply the decals within about 10~15 minutes of them soaking.

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

WAF Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Microscale's SP passenger car red stripes just
> come part no matter what you use to set them

Microscale has their "Liquid Decal Film". Brush some onto the decal before you cut it out and let it dry and you should have no problems.
Adds another layer of decal film making your decal a lot stronger.

Thank you for this information. Thirty years in this hobby and still learning.

SP in the '20s