Model Railroading > Converting brass HO steam to DCC

What resources would you guys recommend as the best sources for basic guidance on how to convert a DC brass steam locomotive to DCC?  I know you need to replace an open frame motor with a can motor and electrically isolate the motor from the frame.  Am I correct that nylon machine screws are the best way to mount the can motor to isolate it from the frame?

TrackGuy

Track,
 You do not need to replace the open frame motor, you only need to isolate the motor case from the frame. You will need to do an amp draw test, with the voltage at 12 or so volts stop the wheels (or mechanism) and see how many amps the motor pulls. If it is over the recomendation of the decoder supplier then you will have to get a motor that is less than the max amp draw. I use silicone to mount the motor or nylon screws, whatever works for the project.

Ed

If it is an unpainted model, you might want to test run it around your layout with a DCC decoder installed (no lights, no thrills, just motor) to check for any apparent shorts or binds.  It's easier to diagnose and fix those issues before you finish the model.  Brass steam is much less forgiving to poor track than plastic.  Small details like driver wheel brake shoes, cab deck plates, and piping can short out if not trimmed or spaced properly.

Good luck!
Sean McCaffery

While you are working with the install see if you can mount the decoder in the boiler alongside the motor and a round speaker in the smokebox pointed back toward the gear box.

Posted from iPhone

See Schutzer.net under clinics select Installing DCC decoders. Best Website ever! Feel free to roam his gallery and Brass loco builds. The best in the hobby!

Javier Cervantes
Castle Rock , CO



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/04/16 20:06 by superchief73.

superchief73 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> See Schutzer.net under clinics select Installing
> DCC decoders. Best Website ever! Feel free to roam
> his gallery and Brass loco builds. The best in the
> hobby!

Javier is correct, Mark has a great explanation on running gear and DCC installation. I like his LED install the best except I seldom use LEDs, I use 12v lamps instead.

Ed

One could use a Soundtraxx Eco series decoder if it would fit and should in most tenders they have ones which should handle almost anything including O scale. Have four so far in my ON3/30 MMI engines mine are the two amp ones along with a Curent Keeper from them also. Boyd in Chiloquin.
-------------------------------------------------------
> Track,
>  You do not need to replace the open frame motor,
> you only need to isolate the motor case from the
> frame. You will need to do an amp draw test, with
> the voltage at 12 or so volts stop the wheels (or
> mechanism) and see how many amps the motor pulls.
> If it is over the recomendation of the decoder
> supplier then you will have to get a motor that is
> less than the max amp draw. I use silicone to
> mount the motor or nylon screws, whatever works
> for the project.
>
> Ed

Thanks guys for all the great help.  I've seen Mark's site before but didn't see the helpful tutorials before.  I'll study them more closely this weekend.  I do have two Sunset D&SL 2-8-2's that already have can motors so I may start there.  Nice to see the suggestion to just get the motor connected to the decoder and test its functionality before getting into the headlights, backup lights and sound.

What decoders are guys using that include functionality and sound?  Soundtraxx and the TCS decoders (WOW) sound like the general favorites from what I have heard.

How about LED vs grain of wheat bulbs?  What are the pros and cons of each?

TrackGuy

LED's should last forever and the Miniatronics Yeloglo are spot on in color.  The con is the most common size 3mm can be a bit big for HO scale.  I'm in O scale so they are fine.

Peter

"Am I correct that nylon machine screws are the best way to mount the can motor to isolate it from the frame?"

You also need a layer of styrene sheet or Kapton tape on the metal mount to keep any part of the motor body from touching the mount. The nylon screws are commonly 2.0 mm or 1.7 mm though other sizes can be found.

Posted from iPhone

That is not exactly true.  Take a Sagami motor, for example.  You can mount it with metal screws and sit it right on any brass w/o problems as the motor's electrical internals are isolated from the outer case.  There is a very simple way to test this on any motor you want to use.  Run screws into any hole you might want to use to on the motor to secure it.  With an Ohmmeter set to beep on a closed circuit, put one end on one of the motor power leads and touch the other probe to all the screws and the case.  You should have silence.  Do the same thing for the other motor lead and the results should be the same.  If you get a beep (closed circuit) it is not a true "can" type motor and you will have to isolate it or replace it.  I've done maybe 30 remotors using Sagami, Canon, Faulhaber, Maxxon, and Portescap motors.  All were fully isolated.  I cannot comment on some of the less expensive motors available for re-powering from various vendors so those should be tested.

Check out this website and you will see the motors (Sagami's in this instance) are all mounted with the outer case in contact with metal screws and metal motor attachment points.  You should consider fabricating a torque arm to keep the motor-driveshaft-gearbox alignment constant.

http://shastasprings.com/repower/guide_to_repowering_and_regearing.htm

I do mount my motors on hard rubber or rubber washers for noise and vibration reduction.

If you need further help, please fell free to PM me and I can go into further detail and send you some pictures.

Peter