Model Railroading > Proto 2000 GP18 Chassis

Hi All,

I recently acquired a TP&W GP-18 shell (I believe from the early run in the brown box) and I am looking for a suitable chassis for it. I plan to add DCC once I get a chassis. From what I've seen online, the early Proto's are not the greatest, especially when it comes to dcc. What chassis would you recommend I look for that won't require too much modification? (I do have tools available to do a little modification to the weights if needed) I also plan to replace the rear grills that came on it, as one was already missing when I bought the shell, so that may resolve some inside clearance issues.
Thanks in advance!
- Caleb

Well don't know about what will fit for sure but the later ones, GP7-9 uses a different mounting method for the shell. As far as DCC not too big a deal depending on which decoder you use. There is room for a small one but not one of those board mounted set ups. My GP7-9s are not much younger than the 18 run as they are not DCC ready either but went together without too much trouble and run great. The difference between the two are, GP18 uses tabs along each side to hold the shell on while the GP7-9 uses screws. All my proto 2000 units run very good have about fifteen of them, FA,FB ABBBA UP set, NP GP7-9 four unit set, one ABA UP E unit set and an AA E unit GN set all Soundtraxx DCC.

Don't give up on Proto 2000 chassis. I'm running a bunch of them and have installed sound decoders in most. The WOW sound decoders are fine.

I'm running SD-7's and 9's along with GP-s including GP-18's. You will probably want to replace the wheel sets and the axle gears. Athearn gears work fine.

You really can't beat the price compared to Genesis chassis. Give these a try. If you need a chassis check the auction site. Oh, you may also want to mill down the cast metal weight. A belt sander will do this.

Steve Barkley



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/24/17 09:46 by BaylorMax.

What other Proto chassis will the gp18's fit on? Like BAB said above, I know that some of the Protos have changed over the years, so my options are probably limited.

Was there a difference in the motor quality of the Protos from the Brown Box to the more "recent" blue box ones?

I've just mixed the Proto 2000 B-B chassis. There may be a difference in fit but they work for me. Basically, the shells press fit over the chassis and then the foot board assemblies will keep the shells on or in some cases there are screws that hold the chassis in place. Experiment!

I've noticed no difference in motor quality.

There are about 10+ of these wandering around my layout or in storage boxes. I like them because when I bought them they were the only decent factgory painted NP GP's and Burlington SD's.

Steve Barkley

I just did two Proto GP18s, with Loksound, Loksound speakers, and TCS keep alives, with zero modifications. Actually, one of my easiest DCC conversions to date, all hard wired.

Here are some really quick pictures of one I have. I switched to N scale so it is for sale like all the other left over HO stuff. If this is the chassis you need make me an offer on it but not for big bucks. If someone needs it that is the main thing. If you have some good N scale stuff to trade that could be arranged as well.

EDIT: I nine volt battery tested this chassis after posting this and got nothing. Now sure why it will not move. If you think you can use the chassis let me know.

PM me if interested.

Jim Bainter



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/24/17 18:47 by tq-07fan.

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BaylorMax Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I've just mixed the Proto 2000 B-B chassis. There
> may be a difference in fit but they work for me.
> Basically, the shells press fit over the chassis
> and then the foot board assemblies will keep the
> shells on or in some cases there are screws that
> hold the chassis in place. Experiment!
>
> I've noticed no difference in motor quality.
>
> There are about 10+ of these wandering around my
> layout or in storage boxes. I like them because
> when I bought them they were the only decent
> factgory painted NP GP's and Burlington SD's.
>
> Steve Barkley

One would have to cut the tabs off of the 18 shell to use on the screw mounted ones. don't know about the coupler mounting as one you have to remove the coupler so the shell will come off the other has a slot.
Also when removing some of the weight the area where the cab opining is will break off easily. I use my milling machine, yup full sized one, to do the removal have done many.