Model Railroading > The NEW Georgia Road OCS and brass painting question

This is a "double -sided" post. I would like to share my recent concept work and ask a question or two. While I moved much of my modeling adventures to the social media side for convenience and access, I still love posting here from time to time as I have always appreciated the thoughtful responses, feedback and criticism. There is also some very good modelers and information aficionados here and I value them. I never get to express my thanks to all of you who have helped me in as little as a word of encouragement all the way to advice and even creating parts for some of my ramblings.

The first side of the post...it usually starts with the official release

---FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE---
ALL MEDIA OUTLETS
SEPTEMBER 15, 2017
Georgia Road Unveils First of New OCS Fleet
Georgia Road officials released the first drawings of the updated Georgia Road OCS, Business and Engineering passenger car fleet at the regularly scheduled conference call with investors. The new scheme will be used on all active cars, beginning with the newly acquired former ATSF observation platform car now renamed "LaGrange" with the number 384.
The first of the new business fleet is scheduled to enter Stephens Railcar's Dadeville Car Shops for a complete rebuild and modernization in addition to the new official paint. Following its release, each car will cycle through the Dadeville facility for similar treatment. This scheme will replace the current version, a mixture of silver-side cars, reminiscent of the old ATSF Super Chief design, a favorite of CEO Steven J, Greenwood. The change was a surprise, but Greenwood noted it was time to update the fleet and give the Georgia Road varnish a unique and remarkable new look. Platform and Theatre Observation cars such as the LaGrange will employ a diagonal white accent stripe denoting its status as tail cars
Former SP 3/4 Dome Lounge "Amber Leigh" and head end power car "Sierra Tango" were also spotted at the shops. Plans are to have these three operational for annual Santa Claus specials over the month of December, 2017.
---END RELEASE---

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Best method for painting brass is to thoroughly washin warm soapy water then dry. Prime and then bake then paint each respective color and bake each respective color.
Cheers
Charlie
MP 52.8 on the BNSF Topeka Sub

The new Georgia Road Business, Excursion and Engineering passenger scheme. These cars make up a day only inspection or business run. "Hotel Sierra" is a Sierra Class Head End Power (HEP) Crew Dormitory combination car. The "Amber Leigh" is a former SP 3/4 dome lounge used for entertaining. The business tail car "LaGrange" is a former ATSF business car that has both observation and lounge space, as well as meeting room and executive sleeping quarters. This train configuration would be used during customer service events, or short inspection and executive ferry trips over a day. Crews refer to this as the "short hop" train verses the "full bore train" which contains the Hi-Level equipment. The Sierra Class power cars allow for any freight unit to be used as power in addition to the passenger locomotive fleet. A favorite unit on these "short hop" trains is the former EMD demonstrator SD60 complete with its prototype radial trucks in the Eagle Flyer intermodal scheme. This would be the only time Eagle Flyer units would be outside of the crack intermodal pool their paint scheme indicates. It is expected this will be the train debuted on the Santa Claus Specials in December 2017. All passenger power is currently LUGO (laid up-good order) awaiting their own version of the new passenger scheme.

While this may look like my FB page post, I add more insight here. Three of the four cars are Coach Yard models, and the locomotive is Overland, undecorated. I know at least one modeler here does work on the old gutless Coach Yard models and makes great models. I plan to do the same. My question lies in the painting. What is the best preparation. One has some very light tarnish. These cars appear to have never been taken out of the box, and the locomotive similarly. The dome is painted, but unlettered in SP daylight colors. I need to strip this one. What are the best practice.
I am looking for a step by step process. to get each model ready for paint. I do plan to swap trucks with the current Walthers offerings. I do not expect to ever sell these cars and even a good freelance scheme, they have decreased value. I can paint and decal, but my experience with brass is mostly detail parts. I want a durable finish and it is said the prep work is the key.

So in a nut shell, here are the questions...

1--What is best practice to strip a painted Coach Yard passenger car---what stripper is best.

2--What is best practice on prepping undecorated or plated Coach Yard cars? Can I just add successive colors from light to dark and use the plate as the silver band in the drawings, or should I strip the car and start over? I do not want the paint to chip off over time if I layer over the plated car.

3--How do I prep the Overland SD60 for painting. It is factory out of the box undecorated. Do I strip off the clear coat first?

4-Any surface prep for these cars before priming? I heard something about using Vinegar to "open up" the brass surface so it will hold paint? What about baking the finish?

5--What is the best way to seal the decals on the paint once it is complete, and how long should I wait to decal. I hear these acrylics dry fast. I am using a combination of Tru-Color and Scalecoat 2. I am open for suggestions here if there are better options.

I asked here and hope to get some detailed answers. These posts show up in Google searches for years, and make for a great reference down the road.

Thank you

H in AL

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nikon1 Wrote:
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> Best method for painting brass is to thoroughly
> washin warm soapy water then dry. Prime and then
> bake then paint each respective color and bake
> each respective color.
> Cheers
> Charlie
> MP 52.8 on the BNSF Topeka Sub


CHarlie--thank you but I want more detail...What temp do you bake, how long, and do you remove factory clear coat or prep the surface in any way?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/16/17 14:55 by georgiaroad.

LOVE your work. GREAT STUFF!!

To remove the clear coat and brass paint, you will need to bathe the models in some sort of stripper. I use lacquer thinner in aluminum loaf pans (available at most Dollartreee stores) and place the disassembled model pieces in the bath for about an hour.

Next I take them to the sink, and using a old tooth brush and some "Bar Keepers Friend" cleanser, thoroughly scrub the models being careful around details and grab irons. After that, I then wash again with Dawn dish soap.

I have not baked in an oven, but I have a wooden drying box the is about 3' square. inside the box I have a light fixture attached to the inside lid of the box, with a 100 watt bulb. Box temperature averages about 90-95 degrees. I can bake dry scale coat 1 paint in about 3-4 hours.

You will find everyone does it a bit different, and you will most likely find your own method as you dive into the project.

KM-Out

Scalecoat II for plastic & Scalecoat I for brass. Mix 50/50 with Scalecoat thinner & spray at around 15psi.

I bake at 200 to 220 degrees for about 30-60 minutes per model. Time and temp depends on the amount of paint that has been applied. More paint equals longer baking times or higher temps. Place on an old cookie sheet that is no longer needed for baking purposes. Allow to cook for appox 1 hour minimum before starting on the next color/layer of paint. I have gotten away from Scale Coat entirely and entirely use True Color paints. They apply very smoothly on brass and dries to the touch in appox 10 min but still must be baked for the paint to properly cure.
Cheers
Charlie
MP 52.8 on the BNSF Topeka Sub



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/17/17 14:20 by nikon1.

nikon1 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I bake at 200 to 220 degrees for about 30-60
> minutes per model. Time and temp depends on the
> amount of paint that has been applied. More paint
> equals longer baking times or higher temps. Place
> on an old cookie sheet that is no longer needed
> for baking purposes. Allow to cook for appox 1
> hour minimum before starting on the next
> color/layer of paint. I have gotten away from
> Scale Coat entirely and entirely use True Color
> paints. They apply very smoothly on brass and
> dries to the touch in appox 10 min but still must
> be baked for the paint to properly cure.
> Cheers
> Charlie
> MP 52.8 on the BNSF Topeka SubI


This method works well, however, I always use Scalecoat MOW grey as a base, regardless of goes on next. I don't bake, but allow the model to dry over a period a several days. I live in an area that is very dry so I have not felt it necessary to "bake" em. Of course, this speeds up the painting process if you do dry them in an oven, so you can go right to the next color. I like Tru Color paint for finishing the model as well, but I personally have had mixed results applying directly to brass.

To all those answering my questions---THANK YOU!!! I take each one with due diligence and appreciate even the most "obvious" tips and tricks.

I finished the last of the concept drawings based on this project. I have a Coach Yard William B Strong car. Story goes that the CEO rode the BNSF iteration of the car and like its layout so much he had Stephens Railcar build one to the same specifications. Hey, it justifies a car that is automatically recognizable and gives me reason to freelance off its design. I decide to approach this car since as I researched I found out ATSF actually built this car out of a Tavern Lounge. As it goes, if there is enough greenbacks, just about anything can happen!

These are day Use configurations for public relations, business and inspection trips, usually limited to a day or two as there are minimal accommodations for sleeping or food service. The full train has sleepers and food service and these can be added for long distance or longer trips. The only change is the tail car, being either a theatre or platform. Sometimes both are in the train, with the platform on one front side and the theatre on the rear end. They rarely travel together in most cases.

I still have to pin down the passenger scheme, as there will be one. So far I can only offer a former Georgia Midland RR U30-9R. GAM was the railroad of my best friend and college mate. He passed in a car accident nearly 15 years ago and I found a Hallmark U30CG that he would have loved for his all GE regional. I used his colors, but added the Georgia Road logos and commemoration. This unit usually pulls a geometry train for the engineering department. The unit is internally upgraded, but care was taken to preserve the exterior appearance as built. The steam generator dome is actually a cowl hiding the HVAC.

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