Model Railroading > Baking 3D Resin Detail Parts

I would like to add resin detail parts made on a 3D Printer to a brass locomotive. I would also like to bake the paint on the brass locomotive. I would bake the locomotive at 175 degrees for a couple of hours. Would the resin parts be safe? How about the adhesive used to attach the resin parts to brass? Unfortunately, not all detail parts needed are available in brass.

Victor



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/13/21 22:55 by wabash2800.

175 degrees C or F?

What's the resin type?

I would not bake them.  

Take a part, or a sprue and bake them - but not attached to the model. Let us know what happened.

Find someone to cast them in brass instead otherwise a glob will result.

without knowing the properties of the material, hard to say.

I've successfully poured Type 160 (160 degree melting point) metal inside cast resin parts (Micro mark CR600) to add weight but it softened it, not melted it, and it regained strength when cooled.

But printed resin is a whole different animal.   I like the idea of testing a sprue first.  My guess would be softened to the point of distortion, not necessarily melted.

Victor, I have been painting for 30 years, that baking thing is bogus and actually dangerous to get fume in your kitchen, no model paint on the market need to bake whatsoever, being on brass, plastic or else.
I have been using True-color paint for years, before was the Accupaint line, their primer goes on any type of materail, if you have a paint booth, leave the model in it once painted with the fan on, no need to bake anything.
Charls

Charls, You are spot on. Baking is for cakes and brownies. Just not needed.   Bruce

Charls Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Victor, I have been painting for 30 years, that
> baking thing is bogus and actually dangerous to
> get fume in your kitchen, no model paint on the
> market need to bake whatsoever, being on brass,
> plastic or else.
> I have been using True-color paint for years,
> before was the Accupaint line, their primer goes
> on any type of materail, if you have a paint
> booth, leave the model in it once painted with the
> fan on, no need to bake anything.
> Charls

I baked em for over 30 years.  If nothing else, it completely dries the paint , makes a high gloss out of the paint, and decals easily.  The paint I used was a solvent type Scalecoat .



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/14/21 13:24 by tomstp.

My thinking of baking the paint is to make paint very durable.I would be using a solvent paint.

Folks, having brass parts made would be overkill for just a few detail parts on one loco.

Baking a test part on a sprue might be different than baking a part on the loco (might get more heat generated from the brass shell).

Victor



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 06/14/21 16:36 by wabash2800.

Perhaps you should use Shapeways (or a similar service) to make a wax master for brass casting:

Shapeways: Brass

I would expect the process not to be cheap, but it may get you the parts which you need for your brass models.

I agree with Tomsp in that I have been baking brass models that I have painted for close to 40 years and it does complete the drying process with a nice smooth finish on Scalecoat paint. I have had to the opportunity to paint a brass model and have a piece that couldn't be baked and it is a slightly different color in the end than the baked pieces...

Victor, I would skip the baking. It sounds like there's too much risk of having to start over. As a substitute, let the model dry for a couple weeks in a dry room-temperature environment, perhaps under something to keep the dust off. Scalecoat will reach it's final hardness without baking, but it takes more patience.

Alternately, paint the detail parts seperately without baking and then add them after the model is painted.

Dano

steeplecab Wrote:

> Alternately, paint the detail parts seperately
> without baking and then add them after the model
> is painted.

Bingo! And if you can arrange your detail parts so they can be pinned to the model after painting with the adhesive applied from inside the brass shell, you won't be depending on just an adhesive bond to hold them in place. 

Printed parts (and cast resin ones as well) won't melt but they will soften. There's also the possibility that baking will cause outgassing of volatile components from the printed parts which will disrupt or stain the paint coating.

Tom Madden

Thanks for your input folks. I will paint and apply the detail parts seperately, but probably still bake the Scalecoat paint on the brass parts. Hopefully, there won't be that big of difference btw the finishes.

Victor

“I baked em for over 30 years,” and someone else stated “close to 40 years.”

I’ve found that an hour or two is sufficient.

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