Model Railroading > Primer for Tru-color paint

Friends, After ruining about $10 dollars worth of Scalecoat trying to match Erie green, and gave up and ordered Tru-Color online. I am in Hawaii; the order cleared and shipped; so obviously it is water-based. (solvent-based paints can not be shipped by air), I have zero experience with Tru-Color, or water based paints of any kind. Please share with me what to prime my stripped brass F-units with.

Thanks, Steve

I use their primer, I prefer the flat primer, you can probably use whatever primer you think will best adhere to the brass.  I've been using Accupaint/Trucolor for about 20 years, I can assure it is not water-based.  The thinner is a a mixture of acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, and a couple of different alcohols that serve the purpose of keeping the other solvents from attacking plastic.  Which I know sounds odd, but as a test I soaked a piece of styrene in Trucolor solvent for several days with no ill effects.

Elizabeth

Thanks Elizabeth, I am shocked that the paint shipped. Every time I have tried to order solvent based paints on eBay, the orders have always been rejected. Not by the seller, but eBay themselves, with a big red prohibited banner. I spay Scalecoat, mostly UP yellow and other light colors, and prime with Scalecoat gloss white. An old custom painter for Overland taught me that. It makes the finish coat brighter and more "alive". I'll try a small sample, Thanks Again

I have been using Tamiya's grey fine surface primer. It is available both in bottles and rattle cans. I have been using the rattle can with great success. The rattle can sprays thin even coats.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/finishing/fine-surface-primer-l/

Thank you

Isn't Accu-Paint and TruColor primer Gunzi (i may have spelled that wrong) Mr.Surfacer 1000 ?  It sure smells the same !

Thanks for responce/ For Brass? below Tru-color?

santafesteve Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Isn't Accu-Paint and TruColor primer Gunzi (i may
> have spelled that wrong) Mr.Surfacer 1000 ?  It
> sure smells the same !

Steve
They are not the same. They might use similar solvents like Liz described. 

Dave

Be careful, Tru Color paint will not stick to brass.    Also once you get your TC paint make sure to learn spraying it before applying to your model.    TC paint is tricky to spray.   It needs to be fairly thin or it will clog your airbrush and ONLY use TC thinner.  I also always add some of the TC retarder as it will want to dry in the air before hitting the model and that also reduces its sticking ability.    I would use Scalecoat I as a base coat on brass, then let it dry for a week or more and apply the TC over that.

A few more tips on Tru-Color:

1) The solvent will permeate (escape thru) the plastic bottle.  If it has been a while since the bottle was factory sealed, the level will be below the neck.
2) Use the Tru-Color Thinner to bring the level back up to above the neck.  I purchased a 16oz bottle of Tru-Color Thinner years ago, and have only used about half, so a little goes a long way.
3) Cleans-up well with Acetone.  I buy it by the gallon.  Put it in a hand spray bottle to clean-off equipment.
4) Do NOT use Acetone to thin the paint prior to airbrushing.  There is a big difference between thinning paint, and removing it for clean-up.
      (Acetone will thin it, but it also weakens the chemical bonds.  For me, its not worth the risk of the paint failing, such as coming up with the masking tape because the paint properties were compromised.) 
5) The fore runner of Tru-Color is Accu-Paint.  They both use the same solvents and formulations, even the same bottles.  REALLY glad Tru-Color picked up the baton and carried it forward.
6) It has great "leveling" properties, so if some paint is applied too heavily on one area, give it time to dry.  In many cases the paint will level, and it won't have to be stripped to start over.
7) Use the Retarder to slow the time it takes for the paint to dry.  For large areas this helps blend wet-to-wet paint, instead of creating "fog" or "cloudy" transitions.
8) Use a spray booth or a well ventilated area.  it is NOT healthy to breathe-in the fumes or over spray.

BTW, I solved the issue with the permeable plastic bottles by transferring to 0.5 oz glass bottles.  I also spray the cap for a perfect color match.  Then it is labeled, on the cap and bottle.  A siphon cap screws right onto the jar, so no need to transfer paint to an airbrush cup.

Dave



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 07/17/21 21:58 by tmotor.

---

Dave, you couldn't have given me more detailed instrauction. I commercialy sprayed in my business for 45 years, both lacquers and enamals, and am familiar with all the apprehentions you mentioned. I will just how to learn the pitfalls on a smaller scale. I like the previous suggestion of priming  with Scalecoat. I stumble on an commercial drying oven used by the military for drying solvents out of cleaned electronics, and it perfectly for baking Scalecoat. Thanks again for all the informations.

ATSFSuperCap, thanks for reaffirming my suspicions that Scalecoat would be a good base for Tru-Color on brass. I have sprayed a lot of Scalecoat, and have a commecial drying oven not for this specific purpose, but over the years, I have work out proper time and tempurature for baking Scalecoat. I'll be surprised if I can get the TC thinner and retarder to Hawaii. I'll try. Thank You