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Date: 10/24/24 08:40
Weathering Powders
Author: fltenwheeler

Looking for recommendations on what brand of weathering powders models are using. If I had a hobby shop close by I would use what they carried. But since I have to order it I would like recommendations. Mostly on what brands not to use.

Thanks

Tim

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Date: 10/24/24 09:28
Re: Weathering Powders
Author: tmotor

Greetings Tim!

I have tried a few brands.  I've had good luck with Pan Pastels.  They sell them individually, or in sets.
https://www.dickblick.com/items/panpastel-artists-painting-pastels-set-extra-dark-earth-colors-set-of-5/

Be sure the surface has a "flat" finish, so the powders have something to stick to.  If it is an RTR model, a coat of clear flat will do the trick.

Once the powders are applied, it is a good idea to spray a clear coat (called a "fixative") to protect the powders from handling.  One thing to be aware of is the clear coat can diminish the appearance of the weathering powder, especially on dark surfaces (such as a black tank car).  I have had good luck with water-based fixatives.  I used to use the Dead Flat (bottle #3) from the RustAll set, but they are no longer available. 
http://www.zscalemonster.com/rustall/

Now I roll my own fixative by diluting yellow wood glue and spraying it onto the model.  

BTW, any solvent-based fixative will dimish the look of the powder.  
https://www.trainorders.com/discussion/read.php?3,5117206,5119547#msg-5119547

Take care and God bless!
Dave



Date: 10/24/24 10:00
Re: Weathering Powders
Author: railstiesballast

I agree with using pan pastels.
One caution about the fixative: if it is too thick a coat it can float the powder off the surface and leave an irregular patchy finish.  Quick, light coats are best.
I have also brushed on water based fixatives/flat finishes and had good luck with letting the downward brush strokes simulate the downwashed rust and dirt streaks seen on the prototypes.  If you do this keep the model mostly vertical and keep some bits of paper towels handy to blot off any excess that accumulates along the bottom edge.  You can also blot off the vertical ribs of box or covered hopper cars as they appear to be the cleanest areas on many cars.
The ITC hopper shows some of these effects.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/24 10:01 by railstiesballast.




Date: 10/24/24 12:14
Re: Weathering Powders
Author: BNSF-E9

Check out BragdonEnt.com for weathering, and many other items of interest.
I use the powders, and have great success.
 



Date: 10/24/24 17:25
Re: Weathering Powders
Author: CPB284

I'll throw in another vote for Pan Pastels. I've used them on several cars and locomotives and have been happy with the results. 



Date: 10/24/24 20:25
Re: Weathering Powders
Author: mcdeo

I've not used Pan Pastels, but have heard great things of them. I still just use a chalk set from the art store for most of my stuff. I have some bulk chalks, don't remember where I got those. I love chalks. I'm learning more with paints both air brushing and oils, but still just love the ease and look of chalks. 

As mentioned, dull first, apply some chalks, dull again. Very easy for sure. 

Mike ONeill
Parker, CO



Date: 10/25/24 03:24
Re: Weathering Powders
Author: Lighter

I use pure pigments. Various brands which are used by military model builders. The photo shows the pigment and paint materials I used to age and weather the underframes, trucks, and wheel sets of a NP boxcar.

Pure pigments don't dust like chalk, so I rarely apply a clear coat. Nor do I handle my models very much. I prefer pure pigments over pan pastels for blending. 

Like all finishing materials, there isn't any reason to be brand loyal. I use and intermix various brands of pure pigments as well as Tamiya's dry finishing materials and artist's pastel pencils.

 




Date: 10/25/24 08:22
Re: Weathering Powders
Author: JUTower

I use PanPastels, although the AIM powders and the Bragdon powders are all well-regarded.  I also agree with the comments about application of dullcote prior and after panpastels.  
In addition, I've also used the technique to apply powders and then a wash quite effectively.  Depending on the effect, I've used spritz bottles of alcohol with india ink, or some of the "weathering liquids", but most typically I will use MigAmmo washes (favored by the military models).  
Most of my weathering is a combination of MIG washes and PanPastels.  And finally, for heavy rust, I will use either acrylic paints or artists oils (depending on the situation).  Example attached.




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