Model Railroading > decanting spray can paints

Quite some time ago, someone detailed a method for decanting paint in a spray can into a bottle for use in an air brush.  Has any one done this?  I'm hoping to do this with as little a mess as possible.  If you have done this, please share your technique.  Yes, I know, remove spray can nozzle and stick a stick into top of spray can and push down. Need more than this to remove paint  from spray can neatly.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

                           Paul B

Had a friend that did this.  He would just spray some into a dixiecup and then pour the paint in the airbrush cup.

Charles

This is as good a method as any. Tamiya nozzles accept a taped-on straw very well.
And the "de-gassing" is important.
https://youtu.be/jo2YseNbbFA
Bill in Ft Worth

When I have done this I just lightly press on the spray can nozzle and shoot the paint straight into a mixing jar.   Works just fine, just press slowly and lightly.   You then need to know what to thin the paint with as it will be too thick for an airbrush.   Many spray cans are lacquer based so I just use lacquer thinner.

Richard.

Go on to YouTube and search for "Barbados Rex". He has at least one video dedicated to decanting spray paint and tons of other useful videos related to model building and painting, although the models are not model railroad related.
http://www.youtube.com/@barbatosrex9473


https://youtu.be/Awi9vPpuXiE?si=noTXidZQcO2ia3SH



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/31/24 07:53 by M-636.

If the spray can isn't one of those spray any postion ones, I turn it upside down and let the propellent out, then drill a couple of holes in the top and pout it into jelly jars.

pennsypower Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Quite some time ago, someone detailed a method for
> decanting paint in a spray can into a bottle for
> use in an air brush.  Has any one done this? 
> I'm hoping to do this with as little a mess as
> possible.  If you have done this, please share
> your technique.  Yes, I know, remove spray can
> nozzle and stick a stick into top of spray can and
> push down. Need more than this to remove paint 
> from spray can neatly.
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>
>                            Paul B

Why would you need to do this?  On my Tampa Northern all of the equipment is painted using a rattle can.  Today's spray paints are much nicer than those of the past.  I'm particularly fond of Tamiya.  I use rustoleum for primer and also for gloss, flat and matt finishes.  The best thing about Tamiya is that you can go from an undecorated model to a painted and decaled one in a very short period of time. 

THE key is to first warm up the paint.  I do this by running it under medium hot water for about 5 minutes.  I wouldn't do that for any longer period of time.  You may end up with more paint work than you wanted....

Brother, if you haven't tried Tamiya rattle cans, please do so.  I think you'll be very pleased with the results. 

Denis Blake
https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1B2Cm4Csrq/
 

SALGUY Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> pennsypower Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Quite some time ago, someone detailed a method
> for
> > decanting paint in a spray can into a bottle
> for
> > use in an air brush.  Has any one done this? 
> > I'm hoping to do this with as little a mess as
> > possible.  If you have done this, please share
> > your technique.  Yes, I know, remove spray can
> > nozzle and stick a stick into top of spray can
> and
> > push down. Need more than this to remove
> paint 
> > from spray can neatly.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> >
> >                            Paul B
>
> Why would you need to do this?  On my Tampa
> Northern all of the equipment is painted using a
> rattle can.  Today's spray paints are much nicer
> than those of the past.  I'm particularly fond of
> Tamiya.  I use rustoleum for primer and also for
> gloss, flat and matt finishes.  The best thing
> about Tamiya is that you can go from an
> undecorated model to a painted and decaled one in
> a very short period of time. 
>
> THE key is to first warm up the paint.  I do this
> by running it under medium hot water for about 5
> minutes.  I wouldn't do that for any longer
> period of time.  You may end up with more paint
> work than you wanted....
>
> Brother, if you haven't tried Tamiya rattle cans,
> please do so.  I think you'll be very pleased
> with the results. 
>
> Denis Blake
> https://www.facebook.com/share/g/1B2Cm4Csrq/

Have found on my 1/14 semi trucks, yes am into those also, Tamiya primer didnt work well at all other than putting paint onto a surface. But using Rustolium  has a formualtion, think its etching built into it and is a true primer. Its sandable as Tamiya didnt prove to be. I use the same when working on large scale train paint 1/8 scale also use there paint for the top coat. On the semi truck I use Tamiya top coat. 
>  

Are your 1/14th semi trucks metal or plastic?

> Have found on my 1/14 semi trucks, yes am into those also, ...

Boyd, you're not the only one. Smith-Miller, Ny-Lint, and Tonka reside under the layout. I suspect we're in good company!
Dano, Montana
 

PHall Wrote:
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> Are your 1/14th semi trucks metal or plastic? Well here are some photos of my creations note the company hood ornament, Flying Pig casting. They only have cab, gear box's plastic all else is aftermarket machined metal parts from China US and Canada. Thanks for asking and each took about a year to build.  Boyd

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OOPS didnt know they were going to be that large but yes there is boxes under my layout but no truck ones, well there is that 1/6 scale Stuart Tank kit for my 1/8 military train.  Those  Smith Miller and such need to be out on display. Here is my ON3 train layout room pix from many years back. Boyd

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I have successfully decanted spray into bottles. I use a bendy drinking straw ( the kind with corrugated bendy section.) Quarter inch diameter or so, tiny ones won't work.
Put the long end into your receiving bottle. You may want to cover the top with a paper towel, may not be needed. You will know quick. Hold the short end of the straw to the spray nozzle, with the other hand holding the spray can upright spray carefully into the straw. Paint will run out the straw into the bottle, the gas will too but not too fast. Keep the straw off the bottom of the receiving bottle to allow the gas to escape and not spatter. Wear gloves and do this where a little overspray or spatter is OK. With a little practice, it is easy and not messy.

Regards,
Jeff Oliver