Model Railroading > Joining 3-ft sections of HO flex track before bending

On my HO-gauge model RR minimum radius is 45 inches (about 17 degree curve).  I need to relay two half circles, one with nominal 45-inch radius and the other 47 or 48 inches.  I have enough SweepSticks for a half circle using a combination of 45", 46", 47", and 48" SweepSticks.  I would like to join 4 3-foot sections of flex track, use the SweepStciks to create the curved section of track, slide the curve into place, tack down the track and then remove the SweepSticks  I have done this for quarter circles and had good results.

John

I do it all the time

Just make sure you've got the sliding rail on the same side.  I also make my solder joints on the side of the rail that not visible from the viewing side of the railroad. This will allow me to put bars in place, should I decide to.  To date, I've had zero issue with the solder joint interfering with the wheel flanges.  The key is hot rail and flux. 

DB

The track soldering and whatnot are covered in one of my helix construction videos. I hope it helps.

Jeff Johnston
thesugarpineshop.bigcartel.com

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZzdID42q9M

Yep, you should lay a curve progressively from end with the sliding rail to the inside of the curve. Nail it down to about 3" from the end of the section of the flex track, trim the sliding rail and solder on the next section while it's straight, then continue to bend the track and nail it down till within 3" of the end again and repeat. Soldering while straight makes for a very smooth curve and avoids the kinks that occur when putting the track together on the curve.

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

Ted is spot on. My curves turned out so much better because I did the soldering before bending.

Nathan

Posted from iPhone

But, I don't beleive the Micro Engineering flex has a sliding and fixed rail does it? I have learned to deal with ME flex but if I had to do it all over again, I would go with the new Walthers code 83 flex.

Victor Baird

SALGUY Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Just make sure you've got the sliding rail on the
> same side.  I also make my solder joints on the
> side of the rail that not visible from the viewing
> side of the railroad. This will allow me to put
> bars in place, should I decide to.  To date, I've
> had zero issue with the solder joint interfering
> with the wheel flanges.  The key is hot rail and
> flux. 
>
> DB

funnelfan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Yep, you should lay a curve progressively from end
> with the sliding rail to the inside of the curve.
> Nail it down to about 3" from the end of the
> section of the flex track, trim the sliding rail
> and solder on the next section while it's
> straight, then continue to bend the track and nail
> it down till within 3" of the end again and
> repeat. Soldering while straight makes for a very
> smooth curve and avoids the kinks that occur when
> putting the track together on the curve.

That is exactly what I've been doing for decades. The only minor difference is I leave a bit more at the end, may be 4 inches.  Then I curve it around, same as the rest, and mark the inside rail with a chisel blade where it will need to be cut parallel to the outside rail.  Then I let it back out nearly straight, and cut the inside rail based on the score mark with a Dremel cuttoff disc.

Cheers,
Jim