Passenger Trains > California Zephyr Trip Report #5(8/13)

I arrived at Mount Pleasant, Iowa on Tuesday August 13th in anticipation of boarding Amtrak #5, the California Zephyr that day. Scheduled arrival was 6:06pm. My destination was Roseville, CA.

I noticed that work on the new platforms west of N. Adams St at the station had progressed since my last time here (in February). Ron Graber, the Amtrak station caretaker, had matters in hand and I discussed the platform work with him amongst other things. The platform upgrade is being done as part of the Infrastructure Investment & Jobs Act. When the platforms west of N. Adams St are finished, they will be put into service and then the platforms in front of the station building will be rebuilt in the same configuration. When completed, the CZ will no longer have to make more than one spot during station stops to accommodate both coach and sleeper passengers. And the higher platform height will mean that step boxes will no longer be needed here.

A couple of days prior, there were about 30 people boarding #5 here but today there were just two of us. I was boarding the 32 sleeper and the other person was boarding the 40 car. The train was on time and it was the usual consist - baggage, transition sleeper, 2 standard sleepers, diner, SSL, and 2 coaches (one was a coach/baggage I believe). My 32 sleeper was car 32026 - a refreshed Superliner 1. The exterior of the train overall was not very clean. But the interiors were ok

Boarding at this time of day means dinner is one of the first orders of business. I had to pass through the 31 sleeper to get to the diner, and that car had the faint pungent aroma of an outhouse or porta-potty. I was glad I was not travelling in that car. Dinner was great, with some good conversation. This train was the same OBS crew I had ridden with once before. One of the coach attendants on this crew has a real knack for making travelogue type announcements. The conductors seem to also let him make station stop and boarding announcements as well. And he does a really nice job. I bumped into him in the hallway at one point during the trip and told him how much I enjoyed his announcements.

All was well until after Omaha when things began to unravel. There was some 10 mph running on stick track west of Omaha. And then after that we were going 20mph for an extended period - for something like an hour. I ended up falling asleep, and when I later awoke we were still going 20 mph. I could not for the life of me think of a plausible reason for this. By daylight we were STILL going 20mph. The slow speed did make for a smooth ride and I used the opportunity to take a shower around 4:30am. Afterward I actually went looking for the conductor to find out what was happening, but I could not find him!

At breakfast I learned that we had passed through a tornado warning area in Nebraska, with associated high wind warnings and a flash flood watch. So that explained things - we had been moving at restricted speed for hours. FInally somewhere prior to McCook we resumed normal track speed. But the damage was done. The train was now about 4 hours down. There would be no recovering this lost time.

When the dining car steward made the announcement the prior evening regarding breakfast, he said that they would be opening for breakfast @6:30am Mountain Time. He stressed Mountain Time, and I'm used to them doing this. I'm sure there is a long history of passengers showing up in the morning an hour early expecting breakfast. Well, due to our slow running we were still in Central Time zone, so I headed for the diner @6:45 Central Time - only to be told that I was early. I thought to myself "Don't they realize we are not on Mountain Time yet?", but I retreated to my room to wait. (More on this later in my return trip report on #6)

This was my 5th trip on the CZ in the last 18 months and this morning's breakfast was the first meal letdown I had experienced. First, the entire table was "sticky". It had not been cleaned properly. And for some reason, the waiter who was serving coffee and OJ was only filling the cups halfway. And by halfway I'm being generous. They were barely half full. My guess is that someone had possibly spilled a full cup of coffee or something and maybe he was being extra cautious. But it was really odd.

And for whatever reason, the omelet I had just was not great - and the potatoes were like rubber. My experience with food service on this train is that it is excellent across the board. So this breakfast stood out in stark contrast. In any case, I got a coffee to go afterward and made sure I got it from the dining car steward - she filled the cup completely.

Let me be clear though, overall the food service in the diner on this train continues to be excellent. Meal times are definitely a highlight of each trip. And there were even changes to the menu since my last trip - including new lunch items Artesan Grilled Cheese Sandwich and a Grilled Patty Melt on the menu. I tried both and they were very good.

After 7am (the end of quiet hours), "Assistant Conductor Sam" made an announcement explaining the weather delay and apologizing etc. He then said he would be walking the train to answer any questions anyone had. We ended up following a freight before Fort Morgan - again with an announcement from AC Sam explaining what was happening.

Due to the lateness, our operating crew was going to run out of time, so it was arranged for a relief crew to meet the train at Wiggins, CO to take the train the rest of the way into Denver. And because we were late, the cafe attendant made an announcement offering free coffee or tea to anyone who wanted some.

The new conductor (named Sean) announced his presence over the PA as we departed Wiggins, and he also finished by saying that he would be walking the train to answer any questions anyone had. (More on this as well in my #6 trip report)

Even though the train was not clean on the outside, the windows were not washed at Denver - as has been done in the past. The cleaning apparatus was there in clear view, sitting idly while the train dwelled.

As appears to be the norm, a system for rotational seating in the OBSERVATION CAR was announced after Denver. And yes that is what Amtrak refers to it as, probably to the extreme disappointment of some here on TO. I have never heard it referred to by any crew members as the Sightseer Lounge Car.

Passing through Moffat Tunnel, I once again was struck by how some of the track through there needs surfacing in a big way. Some of the dips encountered at the speed Amtrak runs are enough to fully compress the car's suspension and even bottom it out. Perhaps correcting this is part of the tunnel work that is being performed this month.

At some point it was announced that coffee (and tea I presume) would remain complimentary for the remainder of the trip.

A couple of times when moving through the sleepers, I encountered a human traffic jam. It was always at the stop of the stairs, and IMO the main culprit are those stupid gigantic cardboard trash receptacles that Amtrak insists on placing there. These cars as designed have trash receptacles built in, so I don't understand why they are not used. In any case, I am not a fan of those large trash cans in the middle of the hallway for sure.

Between Reno and Truckee we passed #6 coming down the hill, and that train was clearly filthy. The front of the lead unit was absolutely plastered with layer upon layer of insect carcasses and all other manner of road debris. Arrival in Roseville was around 6pm.

As an overall observation, I was once again impressed by the young crews - both OBS and T&E crews. Amtrak has some excellent young talent operating their trains and this is in my opinion a continued bright spot for Amtrak. None of the delays encountered on this trip were Amtrak's fault, yet they still took the extra measures to try and compensate for the lateness.

To summarize, I feel that the CZ represents the best that Amtrak currently has to offer in their long distance service (with the possible exception of the Auto Train) and I definitely believe that it is worth riding.

Up next: My return trip a week later on #6.

Photos:
1) Mount Pleasant, Iowa Platforms
2) Amtrak's terrific waste bins
3) Always a big crowd boarding at Denver 

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4) Whole Foods is a great food opportunity at Denver if you're travelling in coach
5) View out the window on the way down Donner Pass

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Thanks for the report. 
I know Ron at Mt Pleasant personally. He does a good job as caretaker. 
Ive not rode the CZ since 2017.
Will be interested to read your report about #6.
MILW86A 

MILW86A Wrote:
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> Thanks for the report. 
> I know Ron at Mt Pleasant personally. He does a
> good job as caretaker. 
> Ive not rode the CZ since 2017.
> Will be interested to read your report about #6.

I like Ron, and he does do a great job at Mt. Pleasant. I heard a member of Amtrak's crew refer to him once as a "life saver". He anticipates what is happening with each arrival of the CZ and makes things easier for everybody.

On my return to MTP I was able to say hello to not only Ron, but to Shadow as well.

Great trip report!! Thank you!! 

The CZ is definitely a great time. I remember Mike Jensen's (from Fort Morgan) video of your train as he commented about the upcoming crew change. I wonder if the crew that cleans the windows maybe works a split shift (to clean both 5 & 6) and Amtrak simply won't pay overtime. I also agree on the food, although light years above the flex crap, the traditional menu and prep seems to have degraded a bit and is more reheating already prepared food rather than freshly prepared, thus the breakfast issues. And oh yes, the infamous waste system smell, ugh! I've unfortunately ridden in a few of those cars, 32078 used to be VERY bad for that. From what I understand, it's from stuff other than waste and toilet paper being flushed down the system and gumming it up. On my last Coast Starlight ride the attendant was very encouraging of people adding a large cup of water or 3 (she even had the large Amtrak cups in the restrooms) when going number 2. It makes sense to help keep the system clean and flowing well. 

Those outhouse smells on Superliners have been an ongoing problem for decades. It is really unfortunate when you get stuck in a sleeper like that, and there are no open rooms in another car to be moved to.

irhoghead Wrote:
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> Those outhouse smells on Superliners have been an
> ongoing problem for decades. It is really
> unfortunate when you get stuck in a sleeper like
> that, and there are no open rooms in another car
> to be moved to.

Needs to be pumped out

Thanks for the report! 

It's too bad Amtrak didn't replace the light brown carpet on the walls of the Superliner II cars. These can REALLY look and are disgusting!!!!

I could not agree more!  A dark blue or dark green would be better!

In fact, a dark blue below the top of the window, and light blue above, would look just awesome!

(Yes, I have been in the hotel biz and have renovated several after acquiring them.  Amtrak, hire me!)


jp1822 Wrote:
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> Thanks for the report! 
>
> It's too bad Amtrak didn't replace the light brown
> carpet on the walls of the Superliner II cars.
> These can REALLY look and are disgusting!!!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/24 17:37 by Chessie1963.

Thanks for the excellent writeup on your CZ trip. 

Wanted to make a mention of the sleeper sewer syndrome in the dubious hopes that 1) someone from Amtrak Mgmt is actually lurking here as sometimes suggested and 2) that said manager does give a damn about Amtrak’s operations. Tall order I know…

But the sewer syndrome in the sleepers is objectively a nightmare when you’re subjected to it. Especially on the western LDTs where you spending 43-52+ hours onboard. In its worst version, a really gross, strong, sewer-mixed-with-stinky-bathroom smell flows through the airvents of the room on about 15-20 minute intervals. The pungency can make your eyes water if you’re close enough to it. And this will go on for 3 days. Closing the vent helps but also chokes off the needed cool air during much of the year. 

I’ve heard people say, “Oh, it’s because they didn’t pump the tanks before leaving.” That too happens, and I don’t doubt creates a similar situation. But that doesn’t explain this situation. It can start happening right out of the gate and that’s when you know you’re screwed. That it spews on these 15-20m intervals suggests the air system is ingesting it from somewhere that releases it on that interval. 

Is it possible that on some sleepers and transdorms, their sewer vent is positioned in a place that is close to the affected sleeper’s air intake for AC/heat? And as that vent offbleeds its stinky sewer fumes, the AC of this next sleeper ingests it and is passed through the system (similar to how diesel and brake fumes sometimes mix into the vent air)?

Amtrak needs to solve this. I have been affected by this multiple times including several months ago on the SWC. My heart sank when I boarded in LA and was hit by the first blast, knowing that it would be doing this until Chicago. Seems like it is worse in the bedrooms than the roomettes. I imagine it is also very unhealthy and opens Amtrak up to an enormous liability should pax feel litigious. 

Years ago, the toilets in the Superliner IIs would stop working at altitude and this went on for years. But they eventually figured it out and fixed it. Same thing needs to happen here. If it’s a matter of moving the sewer vent placement, that should be easy to fix with some extension hoses and clamps. 

Anyway, Amtrak must stop, stop, stop sending out sleeping cars that are blasting sewage wind on the pax. It is beyond unacceptable yet it is going on unabated right now. Hey Amtrak — get your sh*t together and fix the disgusting sewer syndrome in your sleeping cars. 



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/30/24 15:07 by HighballSoCal.

Thank you, Highball. That about sums it up.