Model Railroading > Cleaning Stripping/Brass Locomotives

Hi everyone,

I am sure there is a thread or two about this, but I can't find one. What is the best way to remove tarnish from a brass locomotive. I just purchased an OMI C36-7 that is not painted and there is some tarnish I want to clean before painting it with SC1 paint.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

You do not need to remove it prior to painting. Go on any paint it. You will never know it was tarnished.

I disagree and would not chance it.

My policy is to strip (not clean, you should retitle your thread description) all as delivered brass models to get the laquer off. There is various options but I use conventional paint stripper and an old toothbrush along with conventional toothpicks to get in tight places. I have a Ultrasonic cleaner now so will not need to do the extensive scrubbing I used to do but still need to get the laquer lose. However, before the U/S cleaner came along, I used the toothbrush and toothpicks (where needed in tight spots). This will get the old laquer moving and will clean up the tarnish a bit. *Then* you clean it with soap and water, let it dry and look for remnants you missed. Then commence painting the model but I suggest an etch primer prior to first coat of paint.

I will add that, where possible, I take fine steel wool and rub the tarnish spot to get it shiny. This removes your marks and you WILL be completely satisfied that there will be nothing showing through your paint job.

All Custom Painters will tell you, you do not need to do this but that is because it is not their model and they will not be owning the model in 10-20-30 years time. We really do not know who is right on this ... yet! I do the above and have done it when I paint the models of others. Do it right, do it well, do it once.

Rick
Akanukinoz

I need to add something so you don't freak out when it happens.

Paint stripper will losen poorly applied parts which is common with OMI models especially in the high production era of the 90ies. I call it the "Dad" era of OMI as opposed to the "Son" era which is giving customers better quality control IMHO.

MY philosophy is if it needs to be found and fixed, I want to know now.

Just wanted to provide this warning as it may not suit you. Some people want the paint to hold these problems together and do not want to have any discovery of problems.

Different horses for different courses.

Rick (again)

I've painted lots of brass models what i use is brasso polish after removing the clear lacquer to remove the tarnish then back in the lacquer thinner.Then lastly i use comet or other powder cleanser hope it helps...

I definitely agree with the reasons stated by "Aussie-Rick" but I have stated it before and I'll state it again, the BEST way to prep brass for paint is with bead blasting. It's neither complicated nor expensive and yields amazing results. See this thread from awhile back discussing the topic:

http://www.trainorders.com/discussion/read.php?3,1363414,1363551#msg-1363551

trainjunkie Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I definitely agree with the reasons stated by
> "Aussie-Rick" but I have stated it before and I'll
> state it again, the BEST way to prep brass for
> paint is with bead blasting.

Yes, I agree with you there. It is a matter of "go for it if you got it". This will still highlight the parts which require attention and I say that is a good thing.

My next visit up there, I am going to look for one of those bead blasting booth kits. Any excuse to go visit a tool shop (testosterone rising and feeling an urgent need to spit as I write).

Rick

Bead blasting is the best by far but hardly economical for just a few units. Bonami abrasive cleaner for scrubbing stains from Corell cookware works well with a tooth brush. It will clean the tarnish and leave a fine etch on the brass for the paint to stick to.

I have painted tarnished models in the late 1960-1970's, still have them, and it has not affected the paint/finish one bit.

Glass beading is a great way to put a "tooth" on the metal to better hold the paint. I started doing this in the late 1980's. It is also a good way to rid a model of the green growth from solder that was not properly cleaned by the maker of the engine. But once removed, the brass still needs to be washed with baking soda to neutralize the acid, or it will reform, even under the paint.

But Rick they don't work upside down!

OK, I couldn't resist.

rschonfelder Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Yes, I agree with you there. It is a matter of
> "go for it if you got it".

Great info! But it looks like I may be stuck. If bead blasting is the way to go, I don't have the means to do this. I only have two unpainted OMI models so the investment may not be worth it.

Looking at alternatives....would the thinner method recommended? If so what brand and type should I look for?

How much would it cost to have someone blast it for me? That is a pretty open question, but maybe someone could give me an idea of a fair price.

Thanks again everyone. I love these threads!!

Hello,

I have an OMI DRGW GP40-2 that I stripped. I used laquer thinner and it cleaned up nice. But as mentioned above a couple of screens came off. I reattached them. But I was stripping a bad paint job off so I had to do some scrubbing with a tooth brush. Just to get a clear coat off you would be fine.

Dave Dane

One more opinion FWIW. I've painted several C&O steamers in the past, learned how from a pro. Preferred procedure for best results are to first disasseamble the locomotive completely, AFTER testing running it for satisfaction, so you will know how it should perform after reassembly. This includes trucks and couplers off the tender; also remove the running gear from the frame. Yep, I know that some folks do not to this. Set pieces aside, save all screws, make notes if necessary. Purchase a rectangular plastic dinnerware or utensil tray from Target, WalMart or similar store. Buy two, one long enough to hold the boiler and one for the tender. Add enough cheap lacquer thinner from HD, ACE, or elsewhere. Work outside. Use enough to cover the piece in the container and cover all with sheeet plastic like Saranwrap and leave overnight --- Outside your house. Should not need any scrubbing. Be sure to wash with detetrgent after the bath and dry Thoroughly. Try not to touch parts with fingers after this - use tweezers and or small hemostats, clothes pins, or other clean (no oil or grease) grippers. Spray well with your favorite paint. SC1 is great.

dnuck in Gig Harbor WA

Another alternative to Lacquer thinner is Acetone. Follow same suggestions of the previous response but use chemical resistant gloves and work outside. Not my choice to work with and have never tried it because it isn't good for you.

Rick (again)