Model Railroading > Gluing down cork

I have a question for the group.

I use foam board for my road bed.

Am thinking of gluing cork roadbed

to the foam and keeping it from moving

until secured in place. What could be the best

way to do this.

Thanks for the help.

Randy

AMK SDP40f
Spring,

I just built a pair of modules and I used Gorilla Wood glue for the construction as well as roadbed and track laying. It worked extremely well everywhere I used it.

This is not the expanding Gorilla glue we are used to. It is white and thick like common wood glues have been. One advantage is it gets a bit tacky in 10-15 minutes which helps keep things in place. You can still move parts around and restick them if needed. After a couple a couple of hours everything is set and overnight it cures.

Titebond has always been good though slow Gorilla Wood glue is quicker, strong and offers water clean up. Gorilla Wood glue stuck roadbed to wood and plastic ties to roadbed each time.

use bricks or something heavy to hold down the cork while the glue dries. Also make sure to sand the cork smooth once the glue has fully dried. Your track will thank you!

Ted Curphey
Ontario, OR

Thats part of the processing using glue/adhesives - waiting for it to dry. I learned the old school way of using Atlas track nails to fasten my cork down to plywood and like how it is instantly down and if I don't like it, I can simply pull out the nails with needle nose and relay. Very flexible. I recovered all of my track and cork from my recently torn down layout because it was not glued down - no mess no fuss. I hadn't ballasted it yet of course.

Cheers, Jim Fitch

Loctite Power Grab for gluing cork, homosote, styrene sheets to wood, etc.
Curving cork strips didn't need weights or tacking down after rolling over it a few times.
Gets tacky real quick.
I think I learned about it here on TO, BTW.
Bill in Ft Worth

Low temperature hot glue works well, no need to wait while it dries. 20-30 seconds, then move on to the next section. 

Just my take on it but I would never glue roadbed or ballast, either. I've been playing around with my layout for 40 years and too often I have had to make mostly minor changes that would be a real pain if it was all glued down. Spikes have always worked just fine.

Tom

UP3806 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Just my take on it but I would never glue roadbed
> or ballast, either. I've been playing around with
> my layout for 40 years and too often I have had to
> make mostly minor changes that would be a real
> pain if it was all glued down. Spikes have always
> worked just fine.
>
> Tom

This ^ for sure. I've been down that road a bunch of time and had to make changes and not gluing made it so much easier. Just another reason to use pokes and Atlas track nails.

SPDRGWfan Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> UP3806 Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Just my take on it but I would never glue
> roadbed
> > or ballast, either. I've been playing around
> with
> > my layout for 40 years and too often I have had
> to
> > make mostly minor changes that would be a real
> > pain if it was all glued down. Spikes have
> always
> > worked just fine.
> >
> > Tom
>
> This ^ for sure. I've been down that road a bunch
> of time and had to make changes and not gluing
> made it so much easier. Just another reason to
> use pokes and Atlas track nails.

Smart ideas. You don’t have any problem with ballast getting into the running gear?

Posted from iPhone